Received an email recently from a fella who was rather objective to keeping birds in captivity for which I promptly gave the following reply.
'I always respect other peoples opinions, irrespective of whether they clash with my own opinions or not. Everybody is entitled to an opinion and so should be.
In general I too disagree with wild animals being kept in captivity; they should have the opportunity to live out their life in the most natural way possible, as nature intended, in the wild running free. With regards however to animals kept in captivity, whether birds or anything else I do have my own opinions that go some way to justifying such things... long waffle coming up.
Many of the animal establishments around the world, zoos, safari parks etc. most often work together in captive breeding programs. For example the breeding of endangered species such as the Bengal tiger and giant panda in captivity can help to some extent to assuring such breeds remain on this earth for years to come; however this only goes part way and should be undertaken with the intention of returning healthy animals to the wild - of course some type of 'close to wild as possible' upbringing would be the only way to make it work.
Of course the most feasible option is for authorities around the globe to focus their attentions on protecting the natural wild habitat of these animals instead of allowing their destruction, and of course stop the indiscriminate hunting of such species.
The best way without a doubt to see wildlife - including birds - is within its natural environment, totally free for all to see if only they'd get off their respective posteriors and go and take a look.
Idleness is the downfall of society.
As for my speciality, exotic birds, if kept in captivity I believe they should be allowed to live as close to their natural habitat as is possible in a domestic situation and as such a large aviary with lots of space is the most suitable option. I do not keep any birds in cages (apart from the aviary which is just a big cage really) as I think it is cruel and unethical and should only happen on the rare occasion when some type of quarantine or hospitalization is required for their own well-being.
I do think however that to release an animal into the wild that has only ever known the confines of captivity would be both mentally and physically cruel to that animal, who would perhaps not survive for very long in the wild as a result. On the other hand to take a previously caged bird and introduce it to an aviary can work (and often does) in favour of the bird who would be elated with the new environment, but this should be done through the correct procedure of gradual introduction that progresses a little each day and does take a little time.
To then take that bird who has now got used to the relative freedom of the aviary and then put it in a cage is undoubtedly wrong, like a prison sentence that would most likely have a dramatic effect on the birds mental and physical health. The same would naturally apply to any bird that has only ever known aviary life, or any other animal in similar circumstances for that matter.
Agreed, the best way is to not have them in captivity in the first place.
It is a sad fact that most small animals kept in domesticity as pets for example in the UK are of tropical origin and as such their chance of survival in the wilds of Britain is somewhat limited, we are neither desert or rain-forest and any native species from such areas would find it very hard going in our temperate climate (global warming aside, we're not tropical yet, although it's only a matter of time) and would most likely find themselves suffering a long painful death as a consequence.
Yes there are feral communities of exotic or tropical birds in the UK and many other western societies but their fortune is a result of their sheer volume of numbers and any solo animal of exotic origin wouldn't last very long.'
What do you think?
Showing posts with label small pet birds. Show all posts
Showing posts with label small pet birds. Show all posts
Thursday, 9 February 2012
Monday, 17 October 2011
Keeping your birds warm in winter
I had an email today in response to my article on 'Article Base' enquiring about more information; here is the answer I gave:
In answer to your enquiry you'll be pleased to know that it is not the cold that causes problems for your birds but wet and draughty conditions certainly will.
To give you some idea of what I'm on about my birds have nothing more than a standard 6 x 4 shed as their night shelter, but I have made a few minor alterations for their comfort during the winter.
Firstly I lined the inside of the shed, between the supports, with old carpet underlay which I stuck on with 'No Nails' adhesive but any decent adhesive will do. You don't have to use carpet underlay as I did but any old foam, old carpet or anything you have or can get hold of will do to act as insulation.
I then boarded out the whole of the inside with 6mm ply board, this was reasonably cheap and was easy to cut to shape with either a jigsaw or standard saw, I attached it with normal nails.
That's basically the only alterations I made, the shed already had felt on the roof so this made it waterproof. I use no form of artificial heating whatsoever.
I noticed that you have finches and canaries; as small birds by comparison to the others these need to eat more often to build up their fat reserves to help their bodies stay warm so it is vitally important that you make sure their is always a plentiful supply of food, and of course fresh water, for them at all times, and the chances are they will eat considerably more than in the summer to help them to stay warm.
I also find it helps to provide some type of artificial lighting in the winter evenings; it gets dark by 5 pm and then does not start to lighten until 7 am the following morning, that's a massive 14 hours without light and your birds will only eat if there is enough light for them to see what they are doing. As small birds like finches and canaries need to eat more often to ask them to go 14 hours without food can and often will cause problems.
Install the light in such a position so as to get light into the night shelter without your birds being able to make contact with the hot bulb and burn themselves; if you have a security area between your access point to the night shelter and the access point to the birds area then install it there, if the barrier is solid then remove some of it and replace it with aviary mesh or clear Perspex so the light will penetrate into the birds dorm. If not then install the bulb in the dorm but fence it off with some aviary mesh to stop them getting to it and of course make sure any power cables are out of their reach too, you know they are bound to chew such things if they can.
Allow your birds about 7 to 8 hours of darkness to let them sleep by switching the light on and off manually or fit a timer to do it automatically; this is what I do. I bought a cheap electronic timer (only cost me £3) and set it to switch the light on as it gets dark (about 4.30 pm in the height of winter) and off about 7 to 8 hours before dawn (about 11 pm to 12 midnight in the height of winter).
Of course you will need to get rid of the ice that should be their water and replace it with fresh water about 2 or 3 times a day, and keep checking the food supply. Also try and close off their access points to the outside once they are all in the night shelter if you can, this will help prevent draughts and keep them inside where it's dry and draught free til you let them out in the morning.
To summarise in the clearest way; I'm sure you have noticed that even when it is bitterly cold if you have your winter gear on in still and dry conditions you're quite comfortable, and it's only when it's windy or wet do you feel cold. It's exactly the same for your birds.
The above things might seem like a lot of work but they're not really, and are just a few basic and easily achieved precautions, and well worth that bit of extra effort for your birds' sake.
Last winter we recorded some of the lowest winter temperatures on record, often below minus 10 degrees. With the added precautions above I had no winter casualties whatsoever, and I also have finches (plus budgies, cockatiels and Java sparrows) in my exposed outdoor aviary.
I know this has seemed quite exhaustive but I sincerely hope the information helps to ensure you have a casualty-free and successful winter of bird-keeping.
If you'd like a bit more information then please do not hesitate to contact me at stanton.birdman@gmail.com or Pete@stantonbirdman.com
More info about bird keeping can be found on my website at http://www.stantonbirdman.com/
or any of my blog sites: http://www.StantonBirdman.wordpress.com/
and also http://www.stanton-birdman.blogspot.com/.
To your success!
Pete
'Stanton Birdman'
In answer to your enquiry you'll be pleased to know that it is not the cold that causes problems for your birds but wet and draughty conditions certainly will.
To give you some idea of what I'm on about my birds have nothing more than a standard 6 x 4 shed as their night shelter, but I have made a few minor alterations for their comfort during the winter.
Firstly I lined the inside of the shed, between the supports, with old carpet underlay which I stuck on with 'No Nails' adhesive but any decent adhesive will do. You don't have to use carpet underlay as I did but any old foam, old carpet or anything you have or can get hold of will do to act as insulation.
I then boarded out the whole of the inside with 6mm ply board, this was reasonably cheap and was easy to cut to shape with either a jigsaw or standard saw, I attached it with normal nails.
That's basically the only alterations I made, the shed already had felt on the roof so this made it waterproof. I use no form of artificial heating whatsoever.
I noticed that you have finches and canaries; as small birds by comparison to the others these need to eat more often to build up their fat reserves to help their bodies stay warm so it is vitally important that you make sure their is always a plentiful supply of food, and of course fresh water, for them at all times, and the chances are they will eat considerably more than in the summer to help them to stay warm.
I also find it helps to provide some type of artificial lighting in the winter evenings; it gets dark by 5 pm and then does not start to lighten until 7 am the following morning, that's a massive 14 hours without light and your birds will only eat if there is enough light for them to see what they are doing. As small birds like finches and canaries need to eat more often to ask them to go 14 hours without food can and often will cause problems.
Install the light in such a position so as to get light into the night shelter without your birds being able to make contact with the hot bulb and burn themselves; if you have a security area between your access point to the night shelter and the access point to the birds area then install it there, if the barrier is solid then remove some of it and replace it with aviary mesh or clear Perspex so the light will penetrate into the birds dorm. If not then install the bulb in the dorm but fence it off with some aviary mesh to stop them getting to it and of course make sure any power cables are out of their reach too, you know they are bound to chew such things if they can.
Allow your birds about 7 to 8 hours of darkness to let them sleep by switching the light on and off manually or fit a timer to do it automatically; this is what I do. I bought a cheap electronic timer (only cost me £3) and set it to switch the light on as it gets dark (about 4.30 pm in the height of winter) and off about 7 to 8 hours before dawn (about 11 pm to 12 midnight in the height of winter).
Of course you will need to get rid of the ice that should be their water and replace it with fresh water about 2 or 3 times a day, and keep checking the food supply. Also try and close off their access points to the outside once they are all in the night shelter if you can, this will help prevent draughts and keep them inside where it's dry and draught free til you let them out in the morning.
To summarise in the clearest way; I'm sure you have noticed that even when it is bitterly cold if you have your winter gear on in still and dry conditions you're quite comfortable, and it's only when it's windy or wet do you feel cold. It's exactly the same for your birds.
The above things might seem like a lot of work but they're not really, and are just a few basic and easily achieved precautions, and well worth that bit of extra effort for your birds' sake.
Last winter we recorded some of the lowest winter temperatures on record, often below minus 10 degrees. With the added precautions above I had no winter casualties whatsoever, and I also have finches (plus budgies, cockatiels and Java sparrows) in my exposed outdoor aviary.
I know this has seemed quite exhaustive but I sincerely hope the information helps to ensure you have a casualty-free and successful winter of bird-keeping.
If you'd like a bit more information then please do not hesitate to contact me at stanton.birdman@gmail.com or Pete@stantonbirdman.com
More info about bird keeping can be found on my website at http://www.stantonbirdman.com/
or any of my blog sites: http://www.StantonBirdman.wordpress.com/
and also http://www.stanton-birdman.blogspot.com/.
To your success!
Pete
'Stanton Birdman'
Saturday, 8 October 2011
Small Pet Birds - Australian Grass Parakeets
Yes I know it's took me a long time to get around to this as I promised it months ago. I've been so busy it has had to take a back seat for a while and even now it is not much more than a previous post but with pictures and links added in, but at least you will be able to access more info about these beautiful little parrots.
Australian grass parakeets are popular as pets or aviary birds due to their colourful markings, small size and placid nature. About the same size as budgerigars; they do however command a premium price by comparison but are well within the reach of most enthusiasts. There are about 6 popular species of grass parakeet used in aviculture.
All the species of Australian grass parakeets are closely related to the budgerigar but unique in their own separate ways. When kept as domestic birds they have very similar requirements to budgerigars; same type and size of nest box, same or similar type of food etc. so their requirements are easily met.
Originating from the grasslands of their native land as the name suggests, these are beautiful little parrots in a good variety of colours; often the iridescence of their plumage makes them even more attractive to the bird keeper. Also their calm and placid nature is an added attraction along with the fact that they are not prone to annoying squawking and often emit nothing more than a just audible chirp, making them ideal in flats or apartments where a quiet pet is beneficial.
Grass parakeets are readily available on the market but due to their desirable characteristics and appearance you will find that demand often outstrips supply. So don’t expect to pay less than £30 each and often more; not a bad price really but quite steep when compared to their nearest pet neighbours, the budgerigars which can often be picked up for £10 or even less.
A bit more information about grass-parakeets (or grass parrots as they're also known) is available from 'grassparakeet.com', 'proaviculture.com', and 'avianweb.com'.
The most common species as pets are the bourke (bourke’s parakeet), scarlet-chested (splendid), turquoisine, elegant parakeet, rock parrot, blue-winged parakeet, and the red-rump. Search for any of these in a good online image search and you will notice immediately why they are so desirable to bird keepers.
Bourke
Neopsephotus Bourkii
It is claimed that of all the grass parakeets these are the easiest to keep in captivity, as they are very undemanding. They originate from central and south-western Australia and are approximately 7.5 inch 19 cm long. Bourke’s parakeets are considered by some to be rather dull due to their brown colour but they do have a pink front and blue on the wings, there are some brightly coloured mutations however such as the rosy bourke, and all have a calm and charming nature.
Click here for a related video.
More stuff on the bourke can be had by going here or alternatively click this link.
Elegant
Neophema elegans
Native to southern Australia the elegant grass parakeets are olive-yellow in colour with a blue band across the forehead and along the edge of the wings and are about 8.75 inch 22 cm long. Very popular as captive birds with many keepers throughout the globe.
The elegant grass parakeet on video
More information from 'AvianWeb' and 'Wikipedia'
Red rump
Psephotus haematonotus
Originating from southeast Australia and found in flocks or pairs in open country, also frequenting suburban gardens and parks but avoiding the wetter heavily timbered areas and coastal regions. A medium sized parrot of about 25 – 28 cm 9.75 – 11 inches and emerald green in colour with yellow underparts, the actual red-rump only applies to the male of the species.
Red rump on video at 'YouTube'
Red rump at a our old friends 'AvianWeb' and of course 'Wikipedia'
Blue-winged
Neophema chrysostoma
A migratory species that breeds in Tasmania but sees the winter out in southeast Australia, found in flocks of up to 2000 before migration but usually in pairs during the breeding season. These little parrots are about 20 – 22 cm 8 – 8.5 inches and mainly olive green with a blue band to the forehead and edge of wings and yellow belly (very similar markings to the elegant but the blue banding is less profound).
Here's a video with the blue-winged grass parakeet in it.
More stuff on the blue-winged can be sought from 'AvianWeb' or alternatively 'Wikipedia', or if you like try both.
Splendid
Neophema splendida
Also commonly known as the scarlet-chested parakeet and often confused with the turquoisine due to similar markings. About 7.5 to 8 inches 19 – 20 cm in length. As their name implies these have a scarlet chest but also a yellow belly and underside, bright blue (often iridescent) head and wing edges and a deep green back and rump. Considered by some to be the most beautiful of the grass parakeet species and so making them very popular in captivity. Native to western new south Wales and interior western Australia.
Watch splendid grass parakeet at 'YouTube'
More details by going here and here
TurquoisineNeophema pulchella
Once common throughout eastern Australia but now mainly found in the north eastern areas. Approximately 20 cm 8 inch long. Also a desirable and popular pet due to its calm and placid nature (a trait that seems common in all grass parakeets) and it’s wonderful iridescent turquoise colouring to the crown, face and edges of wings, green back, often orange-yellow chest and red belly.
A bit of a movie star is the turquoisine, here are not one but three vids for you:
Vid 1
Vid 2
Vid 3
Of course these entries wouldn't be the same without our 'Wikipedia' and 'AvianWeb' links.
View pictures related to this post on 'Facebook'
Hope this has satisfied your curiosity, more Aussie birds will be up here one day but I can't promise when, after all it took me long enough to get this one on here, so just watch this space.
Australian grass parakeets are popular as pets or aviary birds due to their colourful markings, small size and placid nature. About the same size as budgerigars; they do however command a premium price by comparison but are well within the reach of most enthusiasts. There are about 6 popular species of grass parakeet used in aviculture.
All the species of Australian grass parakeets are closely related to the budgerigar but unique in their own separate ways. When kept as domestic birds they have very similar requirements to budgerigars; same type and size of nest box, same or similar type of food etc. so their requirements are easily met.
Originating from the grasslands of their native land as the name suggests, these are beautiful little parrots in a good variety of colours; often the iridescence of their plumage makes them even more attractive to the bird keeper. Also their calm and placid nature is an added attraction along with the fact that they are not prone to annoying squawking and often emit nothing more than a just audible chirp, making them ideal in flats or apartments where a quiet pet is beneficial.
Grass parakeets are readily available on the market but due to their desirable characteristics and appearance you will find that demand often outstrips supply. So don’t expect to pay less than £30 each and often more; not a bad price really but quite steep when compared to their nearest pet neighbours, the budgerigars which can often be picked up for £10 or even less.
A bit more information about grass-parakeets (or grass parrots as they're also known) is available from 'grassparakeet.com', 'proaviculture.com', and 'avianweb.com'.
The most common species as pets are the bourke (bourke’s parakeet), scarlet-chested (splendid), turquoisine, elegant parakeet, rock parrot, blue-winged parakeet, and the red-rump. Search for any of these in a good online image search and you will notice immediately why they are so desirable to bird keepers.
Bourke
Neopsephotus Bourkii
It is claimed that of all the grass parakeets these are the easiest to keep in captivity, as they are very undemanding. They originate from central and south-western Australia and are approximately 7.5 inch 19 cm long. Bourke’s parakeets are considered by some to be rather dull due to their brown colour but they do have a pink front and blue on the wings, there are some brightly coloured mutations however such as the rosy bourke, and all have a calm and charming nature.
Click here for a related video.
More stuff on the bourke can be had by going here or alternatively click this link.
Elegant
Neophema elegans
Native to southern Australia the elegant grass parakeets are olive-yellow in colour with a blue band across the forehead and along the edge of the wings and are about 8.75 inch 22 cm long. Very popular as captive birds with many keepers throughout the globe.
The elegant grass parakeet on video
More information from 'AvianWeb' and 'Wikipedia'
Psephotus haematonotus
Originating from southeast Australia and found in flocks or pairs in open country, also frequenting suburban gardens and parks but avoiding the wetter heavily timbered areas and coastal regions. A medium sized parrot of about 25 – 28 cm 9.75 – 11 inches and emerald green in colour with yellow underparts, the actual red-rump only applies to the male of the species.
Red rump on video at 'YouTube'
Red rump at a our old friends 'AvianWeb' and of course 'Wikipedia'
Blue-winged
Neophema chrysostoma
A migratory species that breeds in Tasmania but sees the winter out in southeast Australia, found in flocks of up to 2000 before migration but usually in pairs during the breeding season. These little parrots are about 20 – 22 cm 8 – 8.5 inches and mainly olive green with a blue band to the forehead and edge of wings and yellow belly (very similar markings to the elegant but the blue banding is less profound).
Here's a video with the blue-winged grass parakeet in it.
More stuff on the blue-winged can be sought from 'AvianWeb' or alternatively 'Wikipedia', or if you like try both.
Splendid
Neophema splendida
Also commonly known as the scarlet-chested parakeet and often confused with the turquoisine due to similar markings. About 7.5 to 8 inches 19 – 20 cm in length. As their name implies these have a scarlet chest but also a yellow belly and underside, bright blue (often iridescent) head and wing edges and a deep green back and rump. Considered by some to be the most beautiful of the grass parakeet species and so making them very popular in captivity. Native to western new south Wales and interior western Australia.
Watch splendid grass parakeet at 'YouTube'
More details by going here and here
TurquoisineNeophema pulchella
Once common throughout eastern Australia but now mainly found in the north eastern areas. Approximately 20 cm 8 inch long. Also a desirable and popular pet due to its calm and placid nature (a trait that seems common in all grass parakeets) and it’s wonderful iridescent turquoise colouring to the crown, face and edges of wings, green back, often orange-yellow chest and red belly.
A bit of a movie star is the turquoisine, here are not one but three vids for you:
Vid 1
Vid 2
Vid 3
Of course these entries wouldn't be the same without our 'Wikipedia' and 'AvianWeb' links.
View pictures related to this post on 'Facebook'
Hope this has satisfied your curiosity, more Aussie birds will be up here one day but I can't promise when, after all it took me long enough to get this one on here, so just watch this space.
Friday, 9 September 2011
'Stanton Birdman' gets its own hosting
Hi!
Just a quick not to tell you that ‘Stanton Birdman’ on its own hosted site is now live. So instead of ‘StantonBirdman.wordpress.com’ you can now also choose to go to ‘stantonbirdman.com’.
This is paid hosting and will allow me more freedom with the site to do as I please, I hope not to disappoint.
However the ‘Stanton Birdman’ blog site (the one you’re reading now) will continue alongside the new site.
I am still working on the new site so at present it lacks some of the material contained here, but the posts will be the same; in fact most of the posts found here are already on there. It will be worth visiting both sites as there are slight differences, as I say, my own hosting gives me much more freedom; but I am still working on the build so there will be many changes in the coming months.
You’ll find the new site at http://www.stantonbirdman.com/ but please continue to visit here at www.stanton-birdman.blogspot.com also, and don’t forget my similar blog at http://www.StantonBirdman.wordpress.com/.
Looking forward to a rewarding future!
Thanks!
Pete
Just a quick not to tell you that ‘Stanton Birdman’ on its own hosted site is now live. So instead of ‘StantonBirdman.wordpress.com’ you can now also choose to go to ‘stantonbirdman.com’.
This is paid hosting and will allow me more freedom with the site to do as I please, I hope not to disappoint.
However the ‘Stanton Birdman’ blog site (the one you’re reading now) will continue alongside the new site.
I am still working on the new site so at present it lacks some of the material contained here, but the posts will be the same; in fact most of the posts found here are already on there. It will be worth visiting both sites as there are slight differences, as I say, my own hosting gives me much more freedom; but I am still working on the build so there will be many changes in the coming months.
You’ll find the new site at http://www.stantonbirdman.com/ but please continue to visit here at www.stanton-birdman.blogspot.com also, and don’t forget my similar blog at http://www.StantonBirdman.wordpress.com/.
Looking forward to a rewarding future!
Thanks!
Pete
Friday, 26 August 2011
Pet birds - wing clipping
Today I received an interesting email from someone who bought a budgie from me recently asking about wing clipping and if I knew how to do it.
Although I am aware of the procedure, wing clipping is something I have never actually done in practice. I’ve kept birds for well over ten years and never actually clipped any wings. It suddenly dawned on me that for such a simple procedure I wondered myself why I have never actually tried it in over a decade of bird keeping as a main hobby.
The simple answer is most of my birds are housed in a large outdoor aviary so I’ve never had to, and although I have kept a number of birds in cages as household pets I have never considered actually clipping their wings.
Some would argue that the procedure is cruel and unnecessary, whereas some would argue that all pet birds should have their wings clipped.
All I can say is it is a matter of personal preference, the bird feels no pain or loss whatsoever apparently and it does prevent them from flying away as with clipped wings they are unable to get any lift, and also if attempting to fly from a height they’ve climbed would simply glide to the ground with no pain or injury incurred. If they attempt to fly it would go some way to preventing injury by crashing into windows and other inanimate objects.
So it’s up to you. If you wish to tame your bird then wing clipping will help but if like mine your birds live in an aviary in a semi-wild state then there is no need.
The procedure is simple with just a trimming of the middle section of the primary feathers on each wing. It would be quite easy to do yourself but if you are unsure then the best bet is to call in the professionals.
Below is a few videos I’ve found that will show you the procedure, just click on any or all of the links to access them, the diagram above will also show you where to clip.
http://youtu.be/eqhxMWBcNO8
http://youtu.be/NftNrmu3LFo
http://youtu.be/kvXMZ0kgeq0
http://www.ehow.com/video_2349545_wing-clipping-parakeets.html
Thanks!
'Stanton Birdman' - aka - Pete
Although I am aware of the procedure, wing clipping is something I have never actually done in practice. I’ve kept birds for well over ten years and never actually clipped any wings. It suddenly dawned on me that for such a simple procedure I wondered myself why I have never actually tried it in over a decade of bird keeping as a main hobby.
The simple answer is most of my birds are housed in a large outdoor aviary so I’ve never had to, and although I have kept a number of birds in cages as household pets I have never considered actually clipping their wings.
Some would argue that the procedure is cruel and unnecessary, whereas some would argue that all pet birds should have their wings clipped.
All I can say is it is a matter of personal preference, the bird feels no pain or loss whatsoever apparently and it does prevent them from flying away as with clipped wings they are unable to get any lift, and also if attempting to fly from a height they’ve climbed would simply glide to the ground with no pain or injury incurred. If they attempt to fly it would go some way to preventing injury by crashing into windows and other inanimate objects.
So it’s up to you. If you wish to tame your bird then wing clipping will help but if like mine your birds live in an aviary in a semi-wild state then there is no need.
Below is a few videos I’ve found that will show you the procedure, just click on any or all of the links to access them, the diagram above will also show you where to clip.
http://youtu.be/eqhxMWBcNO8
http://youtu.be/NftNrmu3LFo
http://youtu.be/kvXMZ0kgeq0
http://www.ehow.com/video_2349545_wing-clipping-parakeets.html
Thanks!
'Stanton Birdman' - aka - Pete
Thursday, 25 August 2011
How to be sure your small pet birds can survive the harsh winter conditions that are soon to come
Autumn will be here sooner than we know it; after all we are already at the end of August. What happened to summer? Last winter was pretty harsh with heavy snowfall here in the UK, so there's a good chance that this winter may turn out the same. Your tropical pet birds need to be suitably protected to withstand a harsh winter season.
Larger tropical pet birds are more likely to be able to cope with the freezing conditions but they still need some protection. Small pet birds however will require good quality protection from the onslaught of winter, as their smaller size means that they will cool down much quicker than their bigger cousins. Fortunately your small pet birds are quite hardy and are more than able to stand the cold than you might imagine as long as suitable requirements are met. For example, in Australia where many tropical pet birds originate from the night time temperatures can become very cold in certain areas but the birds survive OK.
For more information read my article about this matter at 'GoArticles'.
Have you noticed that when the weather is freezing cold you are usually quite comfortable if there is no wind and you are dry. Tropical pet birds are the same; they don't mind getting wet, they don't mind cold wind or draughts, they don't mind freezing cold temperatures, but they are not going to take them all at once. As long as your small pet birds have had a good feed and built up a nice layer of cold-protecting fat they are happy. So make sure they've got a plentiful and continuous supply of food to help them feel comfortable.
Also don't allow small pet birds like finches to go without light for more than a maximum of eight hours. An automatic switch that switches on and off at pre-set times and connected to an artificial light source is a good idea, just be sure your tropical pet birds cannot come into contact with the bulb and burn themselves. This is because due to their small size and active nature small pet birds like finches need to eat on a regular basis to keep up their energy and fat levels. They will only eat if it is light enough for them to see clearly.
More about this by reading another of my articles at 'GoArticles'.
Tropical pet birds in an outdoor aviary need to build up their fat reserves to keep their inner bodies warm so if they have been breeding you must ensure that they do not breed during the winter. The chicks would surely die in the cold conditions and raising chicks certainly exhausts their parents and diminishes their food supply much quicker than if they were not looking after youngsters. The best way to prevent your small pet birds from breeding again is to remove the nest boxes at the end of summer regardless of how many clutches they have raised; don't do it until any current babies have flown the nest though.
The tropical pet birds’ aviary will need to be dry and free from cold draughts. This is not a necessity however as long as it is dry and draught free. Artificial heating can be used as long as no fossil fuels are used to provide the heat, so no coal, gas or paraffin for example.
To ensure the aviary for your small pet birds is in good repair for winter, and to avoid having to work in the cold you need to carry out any repairs during late summer or early autumn. To allow enough time before winter sets in it is necessary to inspect the aviary and fix any issues. As long as your aviary is secure, draught free and watertight your tropical pet birds will be fine.
Sunday, 21 August 2011
Cage or aviary - which is the best option?
This depends entirely on your own personal preference and what plans you have for your bird or birds.
I’ve recently sold some baby budgies and have been asked this question a few times and have always responded with the same answer.
If you want a companion bird, ie. one you can handle, tame and possibly train then go for a cage. If on the other hand you would like your bird to live out as natural existence as possible then go for an aviary. This is the basic gist of it but of course it does depend on your budget and the space you have available.
The majority of my birds live in a large outdoor mixed aviary at the bottom of the garden, but when I have babies to deal with I put them in a cage once they have flown the nest to try and keep them as tame as possible ready for sale. This also makes them much easier to catch once new homes have been found for them.
A caged bird will become much tamer and more human-friendly because it will undoubtedly interact with people more often. Whereas a bird in an aviary will live in a semi-wild state and will only be used to its main owner.
I do believe however that if an adult bird is taken from an aviary to be re-homed in a cage then this can have a psychological effect on it; after living semi-free in the aviary for so long this would be like a prison sentence to the poor bird.
On the other hand if a baby bird is first housed in a cage and has never known the relative freedom of an aviary then it will accept its existence as normal. This will not then affect the bird psychologically in any way. If the previously caged bird is then given the freedom of an aviary then initially it will wonder what’s gone off and will tend to stay put to start with. After a day or so however it will then begin to explore its new environment and will soon get used to the change.
Unfortunately this wouldn’t work the other way and a previously free bird that is now caged will undoubtedly become depressed.
To summarise moving an adult caged bird to an aviary will generally be fine, but moving an adult aviary bird to cage is not a good idea.
The only exception to this rule is if the bird becomes ill it will and should have the solitude of a cage whilst it recovers from its illness, this also quarantines the bird so that if the illness is infectious then the risk of the other birds catching it will be dramatically reduced.
I’ve recently sold some baby budgies and have been asked this question a few times and have always responded with the same answer.
If you want a companion bird, ie. one you can handle, tame and possibly train then go for a cage. If on the other hand you would like your bird to live out as natural existence as possible then go for an aviary. This is the basic gist of it but of course it does depend on your budget and the space you have available.
The majority of my birds live in a large outdoor mixed aviary at the bottom of the garden, but when I have babies to deal with I put them in a cage once they have flown the nest to try and keep them as tame as possible ready for sale. This also makes them much easier to catch once new homes have been found for them.
A caged bird will become much tamer and more human-friendly because it will undoubtedly interact with people more often. Whereas a bird in an aviary will live in a semi-wild state and will only be used to its main owner.
I do believe however that if an adult bird is taken from an aviary to be re-homed in a cage then this can have a psychological effect on it; after living semi-free in the aviary for so long this would be like a prison sentence to the poor bird.
On the other hand if a baby bird is first housed in a cage and has never known the relative freedom of an aviary then it will accept its existence as normal. This will not then affect the bird psychologically in any way. If the previously caged bird is then given the freedom of an aviary then initially it will wonder what’s gone off and will tend to stay put to start with. After a day or so however it will then begin to explore its new environment and will soon get used to the change.
Unfortunately this wouldn’t work the other way and a previously free bird that is now caged will undoubtedly become depressed.
To summarise moving an adult caged bird to an aviary will generally be fine, but moving an adult aviary bird to cage is not a good idea.
The only exception to this rule is if the bird becomes ill it will and should have the solitude of a cage whilst it recovers from its illness, this also quarantines the bird so that if the illness is infectious then the risk of the other birds catching it will be dramatically reduced.
Thursday, 18 August 2011
Get your FREE pet bird ebook
Hi folks!
Here’s your chance to get hold of a FREE pet bird related ebook.
Although I am named as the author of this it is actually a PLR ebook I bought a while ago and added a few pictures and myself as the author, so it’s not brilliant but it does give some valuable information to anyone who wishes to start and keep pet birds.
I can write much better material and have done so with my ‘Pet Bird Keeping Secrets, The Stealth Guidebook’. You can also get 'Pet Bird Keeping Secrets, The Stealth Guidebook' by visiting my simple one-page site at http://www.birdkeepingsecrets.com/ where you can get a copy from several other resources. The eBook I’m giving away free however will prove full of useful information to anyone new to the hobby so it is worth the original asking price of $14.97 but it’s now yours for FREE, and you can also get it from Bird Keeping Secrets, just click on the 'Get Your Free EBook' link.
It’s FREE so it’s worth having even if it don’t teach you anything, but I’m sure it will!
Please also feel free to give copies of it away to as many other people as you like, in fact I sincerely hope you do just that! When you read it you will understand why.
So don’t delay any longer and click this link NOW to get your FREE copy.
You can either click the link and then once the book is visible click the ‘Save a Copy’ button in the top left corner or right click on the link and choose ‘Save Target As’ from the dropdown menu.
It is in ‘Adobe PDF’ format so you can read it on any computer that has ‘Adobe Reader’ installed, which is most of them. If you don’t have ‘Adobe Reader’ then click here or here and get it for FREE.
Here’s your chance to get hold of a FREE pet bird related ebook.
Although I am named as the author of this it is actually a PLR ebook I bought a while ago and added a few pictures and myself as the author, so it’s not brilliant but it does give some valuable information to anyone who wishes to start and keep pet birds.
I can write much better material and have done so with my ‘Pet Bird Keeping Secrets, The Stealth Guidebook’. You can also get 'Pet Bird Keeping Secrets, The Stealth Guidebook' by visiting my simple one-page site at http://www.birdkeepingsecrets.com/ where you can get a copy from several other resources. The eBook I’m giving away free however will prove full of useful information to anyone new to the hobby so it is worth the original asking price of $14.97 but it’s now yours for FREE, and you can also get it from Bird Keeping Secrets, just click on the 'Get Your Free EBook' link.
It’s FREE so it’s worth having even if it don’t teach you anything, but I’m sure it will!
Please also feel free to give copies of it away to as many other people as you like, in fact I sincerely hope you do just that! When you read it you will understand why.
So don’t delay any longer and click this link NOW to get your FREE copy.
You can either click the link and then once the book is visible click the ‘Save a Copy’ button in the top left corner or right click on the link and choose ‘Save Target As’ from the dropdown menu.
It is in ‘Adobe PDF’ format so you can read it on any computer that has ‘Adobe Reader’ installed, which is most of them. If you don’t have ‘Adobe Reader’ then click here or here and get it for FREE.
Wednesday, 10 August 2011
Flutter of tiny wings
I will be posting more details about the Australian grass parakeets soon, as promised, although somewhat delayed due to my other commitments.
I thought I’d take the opportunity to do a little upgrade post about the bird situation at home.
Stanton Birdman currently has 5 baby budgies for sale to good homes only. They have now been taken from the aviary and placed in a cage ready to go to eager buyers. There was 6 to start with from 2 clutches but one has already been claimed, a beautiful bright yellow from Squeek’s first clutch of the year, go to my earlier post http://stanton-birdman.blogspot.com/2011/07/nest-box-cleaning-time-again.html to learn a bit more about their upbringing and a photo of them when they were younger.
To try and make sure they go to good homes I'm asking £10 each for them. I am only selling them locally however to minimise the phychological damage that they would suffer should they have to travel far to new homes. If you would like any and live fairly local to Sutton-in-Ashfield, Nottinghamshire, UK then please email me at stanton.birdman@gmail.com.
Of the 5 that are left, 2 are from ‘Squeek’ (hen) – not sure who Dad is – and the other three are from ‘Blue’ (hen) and ‘Pied’ (cock), my most prolific breeders.
Check the picture to take a look at them now but please excuse the quality as I only have my mobile phone’s 2mp built-in camera to take photos with.
They are all strong and healthy birds that are eating well and ready to go, but as they have not yet seen their first molt I can’t tell which are female and which are male.
So far there’s no cockatiel chicks (although they’ve laid eggs) and no Java sparrow chicks (they have laid eggs also), the Bengalese (society) finches and the zebra finches appear to be struggling with the concept of egg laying – the nests are built but no eggs laid. Meanwhile both ‘Squeek’ and ‘Blue’ have already laid again, but I will only allow my birds to raise a maximum of 2 clutches each per year.
On a similar note, ‘Squeek’s’ baby from last year – another beautiful bright yellow – which I decided to keep myself because of her colour has also laid eggs but no chicks yet, so good luck to her!
Apart from the budgies the other birds seem to be struggling but I live in optimism.
I thought I’d take the opportunity to do a little upgrade post about the bird situation at home.
Stanton Birdman currently has 5 baby budgies for sale to good homes only. They have now been taken from the aviary and placed in a cage ready to go to eager buyers. There was 6 to start with from 2 clutches but one has already been claimed, a beautiful bright yellow from Squeek’s first clutch of the year, go to my earlier post http://stanton-birdman.blogspot.com/2011/07/nest-box-cleaning-time-again.html to learn a bit more about their upbringing and a photo of them when they were younger.
To try and make sure they go to good homes I'm asking £10 each for them. I am only selling them locally however to minimise the phychological damage that they would suffer should they have to travel far to new homes. If you would like any and live fairly local to Sutton-in-Ashfield, Nottinghamshire, UK then please email me at stanton.birdman@gmail.com.
Of the 5 that are left, 2 are from ‘Squeek’ (hen) – not sure who Dad is – and the other three are from ‘Blue’ (hen) and ‘Pied’ (cock), my most prolific breeders.
 |
| This year's first babies ready to go |
They are all strong and healthy birds that are eating well and ready to go, but as they have not yet seen their first molt I can’t tell which are female and which are male.
So far there’s no cockatiel chicks (although they’ve laid eggs) and no Java sparrow chicks (they have laid eggs also), the Bengalese (society) finches and the zebra finches appear to be struggling with the concept of egg laying – the nests are built but no eggs laid. Meanwhile both ‘Squeek’ and ‘Blue’ have already laid again, but I will only allow my birds to raise a maximum of 2 clutches each per year.
On a similar note, ‘Squeek’s’ baby from last year – another beautiful bright yellow – which I decided to keep myself because of her colour has also laid eggs but no chicks yet, so good luck to her!
Apart from the budgies the other birds seem to be struggling but I live in optimism.
Tuesday, 12 July 2011
Small pet birds of Australia - A brief introduction to the grass parakeets
Here is an article I posted on 'EzineArticles' as a brief introduction. I will add more stuff about grass parakeets, with pictures and videos soon. Watch this space!
Australian grass parakeets are popular as pets or aviary birds due to their colourful markings, small size and placid nature. About the same size as budgerigars; they do however command a premium price by comparison but are well within the reach of most enthusiasts. There are about 6 popular species of grass parakeet used in aviculture.
All the species of Australian grass parakeets are closely related to the budgerigar but unique in their own separate ways. When kept as domestic birds they have very similar requirements to budgerigars; same type and size of nest box, same or similar type of food etc. so their requirements are easily met.
Originating from the grasslands of their native land as the name suggests, these are beautiful little parrots in a good variety of colours; often the iridescence of their plumage makes them even more attractive to the bird keeper. Also their calm and placid nature is an added attraction along with the fact that they are not prone to annoying squawking and often emit nothing more than a just audible chirp, making them ideal in flats or apartments where a quiet pet is beneficial.
Grass parakeets are readily available on the market but due to their desirable characteristics and appearance you will find that demand often outstrips supply. So don’t expect to pay less than £30 each and often more; not a bad price really but quite steep when compared to their nearest pet neighbours, the budgerigars which can often be picked up for £10 or even less.
The most common species as pets are the bourke (bourke’s parakeet), scarlet-chested (splendid), turquoisine, elegant parakeet, rock parrot, blue-winged parakeet, and the red-rump. Search for any of these in a good online image search and you will notice immediately why they are so desirable to bird keepers.
Bourke
Neopsephotus Bourkii
It is claimed that of all the grass parakeets these are the easiest to keep in captivity, as they are very undemanding. They originate from central and south-western Australia and are approximately 7.5 inch 19 cm long. Bourke’s parakeets are considered by some to be rather dull due to their brown colour but they do have a pink front and blue on the wings, there are some brightly coloured mutations however such as the rosy bourke, and all have a calm and charming nature.
Elegant
Neophema elegans
Native to southern Australia the elegant grass parakeets are olive-yellow in colour with a blue band across the forehead and along the edge of the wings and are about 8.75 inch 22 cm long. Very popular as captive birds with many keepers throughout the globe.
Red rump
Psephotus haematonotus
Originating from southeast Australia and found in flocks or pairs in open country, also frequenting suburban gardens and parks but avoiding the wetter heavily timbered areas and coastal regions. A medium sized parrot of about 25 – 28 cm 9.75 – 11 inches and emerald green in colour with yellow underparts, the actual red-rump only applies to the male of the species.
Blue-winged
Neophema chrysostoma
A migratory species that breeds in Tasmania but sees the winter out in southeast Australia, found in flocks of up to 2000 before migration but usually in pairs during the breeding season. These little parrots are about 20 – 22 cm 8 – 8.5 inches and mainly olive green with a blue band to the forehead and edge of wings and yellow belly (very similar markings to the elegant but the blue banding is less profound).
Splendid
Neophema splendida
Also commonly known as the scarlet-chested parakeet and often confused with the turquoisine due to similar markings. About 7.5 to 8 inches 19 – 20 cm in length. As their name implies these have a scarlet chest but also a yellow belly and underside, bright blue (often iridescent) head and wing edges and a deep green back and rump. Considered by some to be the most beautiful of the grass parakeet species and so making them very popular in captivity. Native to western new south Wales and interior western Australia.
Turquoisine
Neophema pulchella
Once common throughout eastern Australia but now mainly found in the north eastern areas. Approximately 20 cm 8 inch long. Also a desirable and popular pet due to its calm and placid nature (a trait that seems common in all grass parakeets) and it’s wonderful iridescent turquoise colouring to the crown, face and edges of wings, green back, often orange-yellow chest and red belly.
Australian grass parakeets are popular as pets or aviary birds due to their colourful markings, small size and placid nature. About the same size as budgerigars; they do however command a premium price by comparison but are well within the reach of most enthusiasts. There are about 6 popular species of grass parakeet used in aviculture.
All the species of Australian grass parakeets are closely related to the budgerigar but unique in their own separate ways. When kept as domestic birds they have very similar requirements to budgerigars; same type and size of nest box, same or similar type of food etc. so their requirements are easily met.
Originating from the grasslands of their native land as the name suggests, these are beautiful little parrots in a good variety of colours; often the iridescence of their plumage makes them even more attractive to the bird keeper. Also their calm and placid nature is an added attraction along with the fact that they are not prone to annoying squawking and often emit nothing more than a just audible chirp, making them ideal in flats or apartments where a quiet pet is beneficial.
Grass parakeets are readily available on the market but due to their desirable characteristics and appearance you will find that demand often outstrips supply. So don’t expect to pay less than £30 each and often more; not a bad price really but quite steep when compared to their nearest pet neighbours, the budgerigars which can often be picked up for £10 or even less.
The most common species as pets are the bourke (bourke’s parakeet), scarlet-chested (splendid), turquoisine, elegant parakeet, rock parrot, blue-winged parakeet, and the red-rump. Search for any of these in a good online image search and you will notice immediately why they are so desirable to bird keepers.
Bourke
Neopsephotus Bourkii
It is claimed that of all the grass parakeets these are the easiest to keep in captivity, as they are very undemanding. They originate from central and south-western Australia and are approximately 7.5 inch 19 cm long. Bourke’s parakeets are considered by some to be rather dull due to their brown colour but they do have a pink front and blue on the wings, there are some brightly coloured mutations however such as the rosy bourke, and all have a calm and charming nature.
Elegant
Neophema elegans
Native to southern Australia the elegant grass parakeets are olive-yellow in colour with a blue band across the forehead and along the edge of the wings and are about 8.75 inch 22 cm long. Very popular as captive birds with many keepers throughout the globe.
Red rump
Psephotus haematonotus
Originating from southeast Australia and found in flocks or pairs in open country, also frequenting suburban gardens and parks but avoiding the wetter heavily timbered areas and coastal regions. A medium sized parrot of about 25 – 28 cm 9.75 – 11 inches and emerald green in colour with yellow underparts, the actual red-rump only applies to the male of the species.
Blue-winged
Neophema chrysostoma
A migratory species that breeds in Tasmania but sees the winter out in southeast Australia, found in flocks of up to 2000 before migration but usually in pairs during the breeding season. These little parrots are about 20 – 22 cm 8 – 8.5 inches and mainly olive green with a blue band to the forehead and edge of wings and yellow belly (very similar markings to the elegant but the blue banding is less profound).
Splendid
Neophema splendida
Also commonly known as the scarlet-chested parakeet and often confused with the turquoisine due to similar markings. About 7.5 to 8 inches 19 – 20 cm in length. As their name implies these have a scarlet chest but also a yellow belly and underside, bright blue (often iridescent) head and wing edges and a deep green back and rump. Considered by some to be the most beautiful of the grass parakeet species and so making them very popular in captivity. Native to western new south Wales and interior western Australia.
Turquoisine
Neophema pulchella
Once common throughout eastern Australia but now mainly found in the north eastern areas. Approximately 20 cm 8 inch long. Also a desirable and popular pet due to its calm and placid nature (a trait that seems common in all grass parakeets) and it’s wonderful iridescent turquoise colouring to the crown, face and edges of wings, green back, often orange-yellow chest and red belly.
Monday, 4 July 2011
Nest box cleaning time again
Spent a full hour today cleaning out nest boxes and faeces off chicks feet.
First I took down one nest box at a time, but only the ones that contained hatched chicks (just 2 fortunately, or not depending how you look at it).
I opened the end panel of the nest box, took out the three chicks that were in there and put them safely in a cardboard box. Then I removed the concave insert and was forced to scrape the dried up faeces off it with a wallpaper scraper, and then I had to also scrape part of the inside wall for the same reason.
After returning the concave insert I got to work on cleaning my baby budgies feet. To do this I had to soak each foot in turn for about a minute in luke warm clean water (no additives or detergents), whilst trying not to give the baby budgerigar a bath in the process.
Then I needed to carefully prise the dried feaces off the chicks feet and claws - difficult to do without a soaking first, the soaking of the foot loosens the dried up faeces so it's easier to remove, but still challenging as it is important not to injure the baby bird in any attempt to clean.
When done i dried the chick by padding down any wet with a piece of kitchen roll (highly absorbent and does a better job of drying and soaking up any dampness) before returning the baby budgie to the nest box.
I then had to repeat the process with the other two baby budgerigars from that nest box, then repeat the whole thing with the other nest box that also contained three budgie chicks; much to the annoyance of the parent birds who were often squawking at me for disturbing their babies.
Fortunately my birds never seem to hold a grudge whenever I do this and are soon my friends again, especially if I bribe them with some treat.
Comment
If you are breeding your pet or aviary birds this is a process I'm sure you will be familiar with, if you're not familiar with this then you should be!
Until they fledge and leave the confines of their nest box naturally all their activity is within there, including going to the toilet. Bird droppings, whether from adults or chicks, will dry up into solid clumps that can be very difficult to remove. Even more difficult when trying to remove it from a baby birds feet and claws, which will undoubtedly get clogged up and can in worst cases cause a permanent deformity in your birds as they grow.
So be sure to check your nest boxes regularly and do whatever cleaning is required!
 |
| 'Squeeks' babies |
First I took down one nest box at a time, but only the ones that contained hatched chicks (just 2 fortunately, or not depending how you look at it).
I opened the end panel of the nest box, took out the three chicks that were in there and put them safely in a cardboard box. Then I removed the concave insert and was forced to scrape the dried up faeces off it with a wallpaper scraper, and then I had to also scrape part of the inside wall for the same reason.
After returning the concave insert I got to work on cleaning my baby budgies feet. To do this I had to soak each foot in turn for about a minute in luke warm clean water (no additives or detergents), whilst trying not to give the baby budgerigar a bath in the process.
Then I needed to carefully prise the dried feaces off the chicks feet and claws - difficult to do without a soaking first, the soaking of the foot loosens the dried up faeces so it's easier to remove, but still challenging as it is important not to injure the baby bird in any attempt to clean.
When done i dried the chick by padding down any wet with a piece of kitchen roll (highly absorbent and does a better job of drying and soaking up any dampness) before returning the baby budgie to the nest box.
I then had to repeat the process with the other two baby budgerigars from that nest box, then repeat the whole thing with the other nest box that also contained three budgie chicks; much to the annoyance of the parent birds who were often squawking at me for disturbing their babies.
Fortunately my birds never seem to hold a grudge whenever I do this and are soon my friends again, especially if I bribe them with some treat.
Comment
If you are breeding your pet or aviary birds this is a process I'm sure you will be familiar with, if you're not familiar with this then you should be!
Until they fledge and leave the confines of their nest box naturally all their activity is within there, including going to the toilet. Bird droppings, whether from adults or chicks, will dry up into solid clumps that can be very difficult to remove. Even more difficult when trying to remove it from a baby birds feet and claws, which will undoubtedly get clogged up and can in worst cases cause a permanent deformity in your birds as they grow.
So be sure to check your nest boxes regularly and do whatever cleaning is required!
Saturday, 4 June 2011
Australian birds as pets – Lorikeets
Continuing our world tour of pet birds we are currently in Australia so here’s some essential facts about lorikeets and their suitability as pet birds.
Unlike many other breeds of parrot the lorikeets are especially adapted to live on a pollen, nectar and fruit diet. A brush like tip to the tongue, long narrow beak and special digestive enzymes make them unique from other parrot type bird species. Small to medium sized and often brightly coloured there are several species from Australia, all of which have similar requirements.
An Introduction to Australia Lorikeet Species on YouTube.
There are over 50 species of lories and lorikeets in areas and countries nearby but only about 7 from Australia itself. These are : ‘musk lorikeet’, ‘little lorikeet’, ‘rainbow lorikeet’, ‘varied lorikeet’, ‘scaly-breasted lorikeet’, ‘red-collared lorikeet’, and ‘purple-crowned lorikeet’. Each will be mentioned briefly here with a note about their sutability as pets.
Musk Lorikeet. Glossopsitta concinna.
(green keet, red-eared lorikeet) Weighing in at about 60 grams with a length of approximately 22 cm (9 inch).
The musk lorikeet relies mainly on native flowering shrubs and trees for food and can cause some problems in commercial orchards. In the wild the musk lorikeet inhabits coastal woodlands and eucalyptus forests, often in large flocks of several hundred.
Very rare as pets in America and Europe but a delightful pet in Australia though still not very popular due to government regulations that require a licence to keep native birds.
Wikipedia article about musk lorikeet.
A quiet pet bird which is also playful and affectionate and can be taught to talk really well. This makes it a popular species of pet bird in Europe, America and its native Australia.
Red-collared Lorikeet. Trichoglossus haematodus rubritorquis.
Approximately 125 grams in weight with a length of about 30 cm (12 inch).
Unlike most of the other species of lorikeet the red-collared lorikeet prefers to abide as a pair or in a small flock. These move around often due to their food source, the eucalyptus flower being a favourite food so they tend to inhabit the open eucalyptus forests most of the time.
Although good pet birds they are kept in low numbers because of availability and price.
Wikipedia about red-collared lorikeet.
Video of red-collared lorikeet on YouTube.
Purple-crowned Lorikeet. Glossopsitta porphyrocephala.
(blue-crowned lorikeet, purple-capped parakeet) About 45 grams and around 16 cm (6 inch) long.
Will form large flocks where food source is plentiful, including urban gardens and orchards. Their natural habitat in the West is in forest areas, whereas in the East they tend to go for coastal heath, mallee and open woodland areas.
Not very often kept as pets or companion birds anywhere, but a little more popular as aviary birds.
Purple-crowned lorikeet on Wikipedia.
YouTube video starring the purple-crowned lorikeet.
Accommodation and feeding
A large aviary is not required to keep lorikeets but you really should have a suspended mesh floor on your lorikeet aviary. This is because the nature of the lorikeet diet produces lots of droppings that are difficult to clean from a solid floor (plus you will be constantly cleaning). It is much easier and efficient to have a suspended mesh floor so you can then just hose it down to clean. For the larger lorikeets such as the musk, rainbow, or scaly-breasted an aviary about 8 foot (2.4 metres) long, by 2 foot (0.6 metres), by 3 foot (0.9 metres) is fine. For the smaller lorikeet species like the purple-crowned for example, an aviary of about 4 foot (1,2 metres), by 2 foot (0.6 metres), by 3 foot (0.9 metres) will be sufficient. Don’t forget the suspended mesh floor!
Remember that unlike most parrots, lorikeets by nature live mainly on a pollen, nectar and fruit diet so you must give these types of foods to keep them at their best. The larger species will eat seed but this should by no means be their main diet and should only be given as an extra on occasion. Of course fresh clean water should always be available to them for bathing as well as drinking and should go without saying. There are commercially available mixes and recipes for your lorikeets but you may need to shop around a little. Both dry mixes and wet mixes should be provided every day along with fruit such as apple, pear, grapes, melon, paw paw, mango, oranges and tangerines for example.
Here are a couple of recipes suitable for lorikeets:
Dry recipe. 1 dessert-spoon pollen (optional), 1 cup of glucose powder, 2 cups of rice flour, 2 cups of baby rice cereal, 2 cups of egg & biscuit mix, 1 teaspoon vitamin mineral powder. Mix all the ingredients together and store in an airtight container in the refrigerator.
Wet nectar recipe. 0.1 litre of powdered skimmed milk, a half teaspoon of calcium carbonate, 1 tablespoon of honey, 1 litre of fresh water, a half teaspoon of multi-vitamins, 0.5 litres of high protein baby cereal, 1 tablespoon of pollen. Mix all the ingredients together (the resulting mix should be very watery), freeze the mix in ice cube trays. Serve 1 melted ice cube (1 dessert-spoon) per bird per day.
Of course if you can get hold of some nectar bearing fresh flowers your lorikeets will love them!
For more about lorikeets click on any of these three links:
http://www.sandiegozoo.org/animalbytes/t-lorikeet.html
http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/lories/
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lories_and_lorikeets
Take a look at the lory and lorikeet pictures on the 'Stanton Birdman' 'Facebook' page
Pick up your copy of my pet bird keeping ebook on ‘Amazon Kindle’ by clicking here.
If you prefer the ebook as a ‘pdf’ on CD-rom to use on any PC (including ‘mac’) then click here. If buying the ‘pdf’ on CD-rom I’ll throw in a free bonus as a special thank you, once your order has been confirmed I’ll email it straight out to you so no waiting for the postal service.
Loads of thanks for your interest!
Unlike many other breeds of parrot the lorikeets are especially adapted to live on a pollen, nectar and fruit diet. A brush like tip to the tongue, long narrow beak and special digestive enzymes make them unique from other parrot type bird species. Small to medium sized and often brightly coloured there are several species from Australia, all of which have similar requirements.
An Introduction to Australia Lorikeet Species on YouTube.
There are over 50 species of lories and lorikeets in areas and countries nearby but only about 7 from Australia itself. These are : ‘musk lorikeet’, ‘little lorikeet’, ‘rainbow lorikeet’, ‘varied lorikeet’, ‘scaly-breasted lorikeet’, ‘red-collared lorikeet’, and ‘purple-crowned lorikeet’. Each will be mentioned briefly here with a note about their sutability as pets.
Musk Lorikeet. Glossopsitta concinna.
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| Musk lorikeet |
The musk lorikeet relies mainly on native flowering shrubs and trees for food and can cause some problems in commercial orchards. In the wild the musk lorikeet inhabits coastal woodlands and eucalyptus forests, often in large flocks of several hundred.
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| Habitation area of the musk lorikeet |
Very rare as pets in America and Europe but a delightful pet in Australia though still not very popular due to government regulations that require a licence to keep native birds.
Wikipedia article about musk lorikeet.
Click here for Video showing Musk Lorikeet.
Little Lorikeet. Glossopsitta pusilla.
(red-faced lorikeet, green parakeet) Approximately 40-45 grams and about 15 cm (6 inch) long.
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| Little lorikeet |
Like others in the family the little lorikeet eats mainly fruit, pollen and nectar but prefers to be high in the canopy of trees. In the wild the little lorikeet inhabits East Australian forests, coastal heath and open woodland, and is very sociable often forming large flocks.
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| Natural habitat of the little lorikeet |
Not kept as a pet in its native Australia and a very rare pet in Europe and America.
Video of little lorikeet.
Rainbow Lorikeet. Trichoglossus haematodus Malaccans.
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| Rainbow lorikeets |
(blue mountain lorikeet, green collar lorikeet, bluey, swainson’s loris) 125 grams approximately with a length of about 30 cm (12 inch).
Around flowering trees and sometimes in the company of scaly-breasted lorikeets, the rainbow lorikeet may congregate in noisy flocks of several hundred to roost and eat.
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| Distribution of the rainbow lorikeet |
The rainbow lorikeet is very popular as a pet bird in its native Australia and also quite popular in Europe and America. A pet one can be a good source of amusement as they are always playing; a young bird can become tame quite quickly.
Rainbow lorikeet on Wikipedia.
Rainbow lorikeet video on YouTube.
Varied Lorikeet. Psitteuteles versicolor.
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| Varied lorikeet |
About 55 grams and average 19 cm (7.5 inch) long.
In the wild the varied lorikeet is mainly found in large flocks in melaleuca and eucalyptus woodlands in the tropical lowlands of Australia.
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| Varied lorikeet distribution |
Virtually unknown as a pet in America and Europe and although there are a few kept as pets in Australia, this is still a rare occurence.
Wikipedia about the varied lorikeet.
Scaly-breasted Lorikeet. Trichoglossus chlorolepidotus.
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| Scaly-breasted lorikeet |
(green and gold lorikeet, greenie) About 75-80 grams and about 23 cm (9.5 inch) in length.
Although common in urban areas where it makes use of nectar rich garden plants, in its natural habitat the scaly-breasted lorikeet will form large flocks, often in the company of rainbow lorikeets. These flocks will travel from tree to tree in the open forested areas of its native land.
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| Distribution area of scaly-breasted lorikeet |
Scaly-breasted lorikeet on Wikipedia.
Scaly-breasted lorikeet video.
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| Red-collared lorikeet |
Approximately 125 grams in weight with a length of about 30 cm (12 inch).
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| Distribution of red-collared lorikeet |
Unlike most of the other species of lorikeet the red-collared lorikeet prefers to abide as a pair or in a small flock. These move around often due to their food source, the eucalyptus flower being a favourite food so they tend to inhabit the open eucalyptus forests most of the time.
Wikipedia about red-collared lorikeet.
Video of red-collared lorikeet on YouTube.
Purple-crowned Lorikeet. Glossopsitta porphyrocephala.
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| Purple-crowned lorikeet |
Will form large flocks where food source is plentiful, including urban gardens and orchards. Their natural habitat in the West is in forest areas, whereas in the East they tend to go for coastal heath, mallee and open woodland areas.
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| Natural distribution of the purple-crowned lorikeet |
Purple-crowned lorikeet on Wikipedia.
YouTube video starring the purple-crowned lorikeet.
Accommodation and feeding
A large aviary is not required to keep lorikeets but you really should have a suspended mesh floor on your lorikeet aviary. This is because the nature of the lorikeet diet produces lots of droppings that are difficult to clean from a solid floor (plus you will be constantly cleaning). It is much easier and efficient to have a suspended mesh floor so you can then just hose it down to clean. For the larger lorikeets such as the musk, rainbow, or scaly-breasted an aviary about 8 foot (2.4 metres) long, by 2 foot (0.6 metres), by 3 foot (0.9 metres) is fine. For the smaller lorikeet species like the purple-crowned for example, an aviary of about 4 foot (1,2 metres), by 2 foot (0.6 metres), by 3 foot (0.9 metres) will be sufficient. Don’t forget the suspended mesh floor!
Here are a couple of recipes suitable for lorikeets:
Dry recipe. 1 dessert-spoon pollen (optional), 1 cup of glucose powder, 2 cups of rice flour, 2 cups of baby rice cereal, 2 cups of egg & biscuit mix, 1 teaspoon vitamin mineral powder. Mix all the ingredients together and store in an airtight container in the refrigerator.
Of course if you can get hold of some nectar bearing fresh flowers your lorikeets will love them!
For more about lorikeets click on any of these three links:
http://www.sandiegozoo.org/animalbytes/t-lorikeet.html
http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/lories/
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lories_and_lorikeets
Take a look at the lory and lorikeet pictures on the 'Stanton Birdman' 'Facebook' page
Pick up your copy of my pet bird keeping ebook on ‘Amazon Kindle’ by clicking here.
If you prefer the ebook as a ‘pdf’ on CD-rom to use on any PC (including ‘mac’) then click here. If buying the ‘pdf’ on CD-rom I’ll throw in a free bonus as a special thank you, once your order has been confirmed I’ll email it straight out to you so no waiting for the postal service.
Loads of thanks for your interest!
Sunday, 22 May 2011
Suggestions for Choosing Your New Small Pet Bird or Birds - A Few Things to Consider
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| Cockatiel |
When selecting what type of new pet bird would best suit your circumstances and desire there are a few thing you must consider before making that all-important purchase.
During my 10 years experience I have only dealt with small pet birds so unfortunately for some my knowledge is restricted to these only.
Firstly you must decide what type of bird you would like and if it would be suitable to your circumstances, then you need to be sure you have a home set up for your new feathered friend before you bring it home.
Below is a brief but hopefully informative list of the most popular small pet birds and the ups and downs of their upkeep:
BudgieFrom the parrot family and originally from Australia the budgie is often called ‘parakeet’ or ‘long-tailed parakeet’, the budgerigar is without a doubt the most popular pet bird in the Western world and with good reason; small enough to handle, easy to tame, inexpensive, a startling array of different colours, can be kept on its own, very friendly (if tame), a chatterer, minimum requirement to keep in good health, easy to breed (if you want to), usually mixes well with other small birds (budgies and other species). Ideal in a cage or aviary.
However budgies can inflict a nasty wound if they bite you whilst handling (rarely a problem if they’re tame, but they can draw blood if they sink their beak in), they can also be rather destructive (they love to chew), and budgerigars can be very territorial during breeding (especially if kept with other birds).
In the wild budgies live in large flocks and so need plenty of interaction to save them from becoming bored. They therefore need to be kept busy with lots of toys and your attention, or alternatively kept with another of their kind, so as they can interact with each other.
CockatielAnother Australian bird often called ‘tiel’ for short, these small parrots are also very popular as pets, due to their calm nature and unique character. A little bigger than the budgie so more space is required (a bigger cage for example), the cockatiel also lives in large flocks in the wild so again interaction and toys are a must.
They can be kept an their own or in pairs or small groups, and easy to keep. Ideal as a cage or aviary bird, and because of their calm nature the cockatiel will normally mix well with other small birds of a different species (cockatiels are often kept in the same aviary as budgerigars and finches with rarely any problems). They can learn to mimic other sounds with patience and determination, and are easy to tame.
However they can also inflict a rather nasty wound if they choose to bite (probably a worse injury than the budgie due to their larger beaks, but again not usually a problem when tame). Ideally if you want to breed your cockatiels they need to be on their own as a breeding pair with no other birds. These birds can also be very destructive due to their desire to have a chew at almost anything, but they are easily startled (so no sudden loud noises or sudden bright lights please!).
FinchesSomewhat smaller than budgerigars and cockatiels, and not part of the parrot family, the most popular types of finch are again very popular for good reason: very easy to keep, good natured, small and compact, extremely active, cute, prolific breeders, usually low priced, little space required for good upkeep (the perfect pet bird for apartments, flats and small living areas).
There are many types of finch available on the pet bird market but the most popular are: zebra finch, society finch (Bengalese finch), gouldian finch, java finch (java sparrow), the java being the largest of the four just mentioned (slightly smaller than the budgie).
All of these can be accommodated in a cage of aviary and also usually mix well with other species (I keep budgerigars, cockatiels, zebra finches, Bengalese finches, and javas together in a large outdoor aviary and very rarely have any problems).
As for the initial cost of these little characters the zebra finches usually come out the least expensive (from £3 to £8 each, often with a good deal for a pair), next would be the society finches (from £5 to £10 each, again with a better deal for a pair), then the javas (£8 to £15 each, buy two for a better price), and the gouldian finches coming out on top (the cheapest I’ve seen these is about £20 each right up to £60 - sometimes more - but a deal on more than one can usually be arranged). The reason for the bigger price for the gouldians is because of their great colouring and rarity, a desirable bird that people will often pay handsomely for.
However finches do not always take readily to handling and must be kept in groups of 2 or more.
At least due to their small size a bite is not likely to bother you a great deal.
OthersThere are many other types of birds available but the price is usually higher as they are not as common.
Many other types of parakeets however are still rather popular - ring neck parakeet, grass parakeet (bourke, turquoisine, elegant, alexandrine), kakariki (New-Zealand parakeet), rosella, love bird to name but a few.
The upkeep however for all small pet birds is basically the same.
Always remember to shop around for the best deal and if possible buy your new bird or birds from a breeder, or hobbyist rather than a pet shop.
A note on accommodation for your new pet bird.Most small pet birds will live happily in an aviary, and this is the nearest they are likely to get to their natural environment, but in an aviary your birds will become semi-wild and may not take very well to handling or one on one interaction.
Caged birds however are a different matter, and can often be tame and friendly towards us humans. Make sure that if you plan to keep your bird or birds in a cage then go for the biggest you can afford (within reason of course, no good putting zebra finches in a large wide barred parrot cage); your bird needs to be able to stretch its wings to their fullest extent and still have some room left.
Most pet birds - especially parrot type species - will spend more time climbing than flying, even in an aviary.
For more bird keeping related issues please email me with your questions.
More information can be found in my new pet bird keeping ebook available now, visit http://www.amazon.co.uk/Pet-Bird-keeping-Secrets-Stealth-Guidebook/dp/B004WP3OFW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1305890625&sr=8-2 to get your copy.
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