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Wednesday 26 October 2011

Zebra Finches: Why They Are Easy to Care For

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Among many varieties of finches, zebra finches are one of the easiest for keeping and breeding, because of their meek and vivid nature. These birds that originate from Australia are among the most beloved pets in the world. We are sure you are not asking yourself why they are so beloved, you only have to see one of them once just to realize that they are really special, sweet creatures. This makes them very special and simply irresistible. Their appearance has long been a subject of fascination among bird enthusiasts.

These finches are sincerely recommended for beginners, and they are very suitable for novices who have a wish to breed birds. Naturally, it does not mean you do not have to posses any knowledge about them, it just means that you can easy learn about their needs and get prepared for the challenge. Unlike some other types of finches, zebras are very comfortable in human presence, which guaranties they will not look at you appearance as a form of domestic disturbance. We could never be sure what exactly exists in their world of fantasies and dreams, but no doubt, there is something beautiful, worthy of admiration and respect. It means they would not feel offended if you do not pay them a special attention. Of course, we are talking about at least one pair of finches. In their native Australia, they move in flocks and really enjoy flying over the wide grasslands. Finches of zebra subfamily keep their social behavior during the entire life, and they build interesting relationships with other birds in the flock.

They remain happy and cheerful during their lifespan, which is usually up to five years. An interesting fact is worth to mention: unlike most of animals that live in zoos, these birds have longer lifespan in captivity which usually ranges from 8 to 10 years. Their cute chirping is simply adorable and there is no real chance for you to feel uncomfortable by them.

You need to obtain a cage, large enough, that will allow them to make short flights and various exercises. You may also allow them to fly in your home outside the cage, but you have to make sure that doors and windows are closed in order to exclude possibility of their escape. Unlike some other birds, including finches, zebras have no problems with mating because they do not have high demands, which means that male and female are always compatible. The male and the female love each other and spend a plenty of time to kiss and preen each other. Problems are possible but, anyway, most of them are easy solvable. However, little troubles occur from time to time; for example a quarrel is possible when they decide who to sit on eggs. Males can be more aggressive and you can vent their aggression by supplying them toys to play.

More specific information are needed to care for many other kinds of pets, which means some of them have very special needs and only little mistake can lead to disastrous consequences. Little zebra birds are not among these pets. They are among the hardiest finches and you need only basic information to keep them properly, making their lives full of joy.

They have to be feed properly, but anyway, their usual menu is not complicated to be learned. You do not need a special experience to make them suitable conditions for breeding and that is why beginners have a great success dealing with these little pets, only by following some basic rules.

Cody Jons is a finch expert. Finches Birds Center has the complete guide for Finches Zebra. Here is a free expert advice on Keeping and Breeding, Beautiful Healthy Finches visit http://www.finchesbirdscenter.com/.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Cody_Jons

Monday 17 October 2011

Keeping your birds warm in winter

I had an email today in response to my article on 'Article Base' enquiring about more information; here is the answer I gave:

In answer to your enquiry you'll be pleased to know that it is not the cold that causes problems for your birds but wet and draughty conditions certainly will.

To give you some idea of what I'm on about my birds have nothing more than a standard 6 x 4 shed as their night shelter, but I have made a few minor alterations for their comfort during the winter.

Firstly I lined the inside of the shed, between the supports, with old carpet underlay which I stuck on with 'No Nails' adhesive but any decent adhesive will do. You don't have to use carpet underlay as I did but any old foam, old carpet or anything you have or can get hold of will do to act as insulation.
I then boarded out the whole of the inside with 6mm ply board, this was reasonably cheap and was easy to cut to shape with either a jigsaw or standard saw, I attached it with normal nails.

That's basically the only alterations I made, the shed already had felt on the roof so this made it waterproof. I use no form of artificial heating whatsoever.

I noticed that you have finches and canaries; as small birds by comparison to the others these need to eat more often to build up their fat reserves to help their bodies stay warm so it is vitally important that you make sure their is always a plentiful supply of food, and of course fresh water, for them at all times, and the chances are they will eat considerably more than in the summer to help them to stay warm.

I also find it helps to provide some type of artificial lighting in the winter evenings; it gets dark by 5 pm and then does not start to lighten until 7 am the following morning, that's a massive 14 hours without light and your birds will only eat if there is enough light for them to see what they are doing. As small birds like finches and canaries need to eat more often to ask them to go 14 hours without food can and often will cause problems.

Install the light in such a position so as to get light into the night shelter without your birds being able to make contact with the hot bulb and burn themselves; if you have a security area between your access point to the night shelter and the access point to the birds area then install it there, if the barrier is solid then remove some of it and replace it with aviary mesh or clear Perspex so the light will penetrate into the birds dorm. If not then install the bulb in the dorm but fence it off with some aviary mesh to stop them getting to it and of course make sure any power cables are out of their reach too, you know they are bound to chew such things if they can.

Allow your birds about 7 to 8 hours of darkness to let them sleep by switching the light on and off manually or fit a timer to do it automatically; this is what I do. I bought a cheap electronic timer (only cost me £3) and set it to switch the light on as it gets dark (about 4.30 pm in the height of winter) and off about 7 to 8 hours before dawn (about 11 pm to 12 midnight in the height of winter).

Of course you will need to get rid of the ice that should be their water and replace it with fresh water about 2 or 3 times a day, and keep checking the food supply. Also try and close off their access points to the outside once they are all in the night shelter if you can, this will help prevent draughts and keep them inside where it's dry and draught free til you let them out in the morning.

To summarise in the clearest way; I'm sure you have noticed that even when it is bitterly cold if you have your winter gear on in still and dry conditions you're quite comfortable, and it's only when it's windy or wet do you feel cold. It's exactly the same for your birds.

The above things might seem like a lot of work but they're not really, and are just a few basic and easily achieved precautions, and well worth that bit of extra effort for your birds' sake.

Last winter we recorded some of the lowest winter temperatures on record, often below minus 10 degrees. With the added precautions above I had no winter casualties whatsoever, and I also have finches (plus budgies, cockatiels and Java sparrows) in my exposed outdoor aviary.

I know this has seemed quite exhaustive but I sincerely hope the information helps to ensure you have a casualty-free and successful winter of bird-keeping.

If you'd like a bit more information then please do not hesitate to contact me at stanton.birdman@gmail.com or Pete@stantonbirdman.com
More info about bird keeping can be found on my website at http://www.stantonbirdman.com/
or any of my blog sites: http://www.StantonBirdman.wordpress.com/
and also http://www.stanton-birdman.blogspot.com/.

To your success!
Pete
'Stanton Birdman'

Saturday 8 October 2011

Small Pet Birds - Australian Grass Parakeets

Yes I know it's took me a long time to get around to this as I promised it months ago.  I've been so busy it has had to take a back seat for a while and even now it is not much more than a previous post but with pictures and links added in, but at least you will be able to access more info about these beautiful little parrots.

Australian grass parakeets are popular as pets or aviary birds due to their colourful markings, small size and placid nature. About the same size as budgerigars; they do however command a premium price by comparison but are well within the reach of most enthusiasts. There are about 6 popular species of grass parakeet used in aviculture.

All the species of Australian grass parakeets are closely related to the budgerigar but unique in their own separate ways. When kept as domestic birds they have very similar requirements to budgerigars; same type and size of nest box, same or similar type of food etc. so their requirements are easily met.

Originating from the grasslands of their native land as the name suggests, these are beautiful little parrots in a good variety of colours; often the iridescence of their plumage makes them even more attractive to the bird keeper. Also their calm and placid nature is an added attraction along with the fact that they are not prone to annoying squawking and often emit nothing more than a just audible chirp, making them ideal in flats or apartments where a quiet pet is beneficial.
Grass parakeets are readily available on the market but due to their desirable characteristics and appearance you will find that demand often outstrips supply. So don’t expect to pay less than £30 each and often more; not a bad price really but quite steep when compared to their nearest pet neighbours, the budgerigars which can often be picked up for £10 or even less.

A bit more information about grass-parakeets (or grass parrots as they're also known) is available from 'grassparakeet.com', 'proaviculture.com', and 'avianweb.com'.
The most common species as pets are the bourke (bourke’s parakeet), scarlet-chested (splendid), turquoisine, elegant parakeet, rock parrot, blue-winged parakeet, and the red-rump. Search for any of these in a good online image search and you will notice immediately why they are so desirable to bird keepers.

 
Bourke
Neopsephotus Bourkii

It is claimed that of all the grass parakeets these are the easiest to keep in captivity, as they are very undemanding. They originate from central and south-western Australia and are approximately 7.5 inch 19 cm long. Bourke’s parakeets are considered by some to be rather dull due to their brown colour but they do have a pink front and blue on the wings, there are some brightly coloured mutations however such as the rosy bourke, and all have a calm and charming nature.

Click here for a related video.

More stuff on the bourke can be had by going here or alternatively click this link.

 

Elegant
Neophema elegans

Native to southern Australia the elegant grass parakeets are olive-yellow in colour with a blue band across the forehead and along the edge of the wings and are about 8.75 inch 22 cm long. Very popular as captive birds with many keepers throughout the globe.

The elegant grass parakeet on video

More information from 'AvianWeb' and 'Wikipedia'

  
Red rump
Psephotus haematonotus

Originating from southeast Australia and found in flocks or pairs in open country, also frequenting suburban gardens and parks but avoiding the wetter heavily timbered areas and coastal regions. A medium sized parrot of about 25 – 28 cm 9.75 – 11 inches and emerald green in colour with yellow underparts, the actual red-rump only applies to the male of the species.

Red rump on video at 'YouTube'

Red rump at a our old friends 'AvianWeb' and of course 'Wikipedia'

 

Blue-winged
Neophema chrysostoma

A migratory species that breeds in Tasmania but sees the winter out in southeast Australia, found in flocks of up to 2000 before migration but usually in pairs during the breeding season. These little parrots are about 20 – 22 cm 8 – 8.5 inches and mainly olive green with a blue band to the forehead and edge of wings and yellow belly (very similar markings to the elegant but the blue banding is less profound).

Here's a video with the blue-winged grass parakeet in it.

More stuff on the blue-winged can be sought from 'AvianWeb' or alternatively 'Wikipedia', or if you like try both.



 
Splendid
Neophema splendida

Also commonly known as the scarlet-chested parakeet and often confused with the turquoisine due to similar markings. About 7.5 to 8 inches 19 – 20 cm in length. As their name implies these have a scarlet chest but also a yellow belly and underside, bright blue (often iridescent) head and wing edges and a deep green back and rump. Considered by some to be the most beautiful of the grass parakeet species and so making them very popular in captivity. Native to western new south Wales and interior western Australia.

Watch splendid grass parakeet at 'YouTube'

More details by going here and here

 
TurquoisineNeophema pulchella

Once common throughout eastern Australia but now mainly found in the north eastern areas. Approximately 20 cm 8 inch long. Also a desirable and popular pet due to its calm and placid nature (a trait that seems common in all grass parakeets) and it’s wonderful iridescent turquoise colouring to the crown, face and edges of wings, green back, often orange-yellow chest and red belly.
A bit of a movie star is the turquoisine, here are not one but three vids for you:
Vid 1
Vid 2
Vid 3

Of course these entries wouldn't be the same without our 'Wikipedia' and 'AvianWeb' links.

View pictures related to this post on 'Facebook'

Hope this has satisfied your curiosity, more Aussie birds will be up here one day but I can't promise when, after all it took me long enough to get this one on here, so just watch this space.

Monday 12 September 2011

All my pet bird keeping articles in one place

Just a quick post to tell you that I have now put all my published pet bird articles together in one document.

You can download it FREE by clicking on this link.

Thanks!

Friday 9 September 2011

'Stanton Birdman' gets its own hosting

Hi!

Just a quick not to tell you that ‘Stanton Birdman’ on its own hosted site is now live.  So instead of ‘StantonBirdman.wordpress.com’ you can now also choose to go to ‘stantonbirdman.com’.

This is paid hosting and will allow me more freedom with the site to do as I please, I hope not to disappoint.
However the ‘Stanton Birdman’ blog site (the one you’re reading now) will continue alongside the new site.

I am still working on the new site so at present it lacks some of the material contained here, but the posts will be the same; in fact most of the posts found here are already on there.  It will be worth visiting both sites as there are slight differences, as I say, my own hosting gives me much more freedom; but I am still working on the build so there will be many changes in the coming months.

You’ll find the new site at http://www.stantonbirdman.com/ but please continue to visit here at www.stanton-birdman.blogspot.com also, and don’t forget my similar blog at http://www.StantonBirdman.wordpress.com/.

Looking forward to a rewarding future!

Thanks!

Pete

Friday 26 August 2011

Pet birds - wing clipping

Today I received an interesting email from someone who bought a budgie from me recently asking about wing clipping and if I knew how to do it.

Although I am aware of the procedure, wing clipping is something I have never actually done in practice. I’ve kept birds for well over ten years and never actually clipped any wings. It suddenly dawned on me that for such a simple procedure I wondered myself why I have never actually tried it in over a decade of bird keeping as a main hobby.

The simple answer is most of my birds are housed in a large outdoor aviary so I’ve never had to, and although I have kept a number of birds in cages as household pets I have never considered actually clipping their wings.

Some would argue that the procedure is cruel and unnecessary, whereas some would argue that all pet birds should have their wings clipped.

All I can say is it is a matter of personal preference, the bird feels no pain or loss whatsoever apparently and it does prevent them from flying away as with clipped wings they are unable to get any lift, and also if attempting to fly from a height they’ve climbed would simply glide to the ground with no pain or injury incurred. If they attempt to fly it would go some way to preventing injury by crashing into windows and other inanimate objects.

So it’s up to you. If you wish to tame your bird then wing clipping will help but if like mine your birds live in an aviary in a semi-wild state then there is no need.


The procedure is simple with just a trimming of the middle section of the primary feathers on each wing. It would be quite easy to do yourself but if you are unsure then the best bet is to call in the professionals.

Below is a few videos I’ve found that will show you the procedure, just click on any or all of the links to access them, the diagram above will also show you where to clip.

http://youtu.be/eqhxMWBcNO8

http://youtu.be/NftNrmu3LFo

http://youtu.be/kvXMZ0kgeq0

http://www.ehow.com/video_2349545_wing-clipping-parakeets.html

Thanks!

'Stanton Birdman' - aka - Pete

Thursday 25 August 2011

How to be sure your small pet birds can survive the harsh winter conditions that are soon to come

Autumn will be here sooner than we know it; after all we are already at the end of August.  What happened to summer?  Last winter was pretty harsh with heavy snowfall here in the UK, so there's a good chance that this winter may turn out the same.  Your tropical pet birds need to be suitably protected to withstand a harsh winter season.

Larger tropical pet birds are more likely to be able to cope with the freezing conditions but they still need some protection.  Small pet birds however will require good quality protection from the onslaught of winter, as their smaller size means that they will cool down much quicker than their bigger cousins.  Fortunately your small pet birds are quite hardy and are more than able to stand the cold than you might imagine as long as suitable requirements are met.  For example, in Australia where many tropical pet birds originate from the night time temperatures can become very cold in certain areas but the birds survive OK. 

For more information read my article about this matter at 'GoArticles'.

Have you noticed that when the weather is freezing cold you are usually quite comfortable if there is no wind and you are dry.  Tropical pet birds are the same; they don't mind getting wet, they don't mind cold wind or draughts, they don't mind freezing cold temperatures, but they are not going to take them all at once.  As long as your small pet birds have had a good feed and built up a nice layer of cold-protecting fat they are happy.  So make sure they've got a plentiful and continuous supply of food to help them feel comfortable.

Also don't allow small pet birds like finches to go without light for more than a maximum of eight hours.  An automatic switch that switches on and off at pre-set times and connected to an artificial light source is a good idea, just be sure your tropical pet birds cannot come into contact with the bulb and burn themselves.  This is because due to their small size and active nature small pet birds like finches need to eat on a regular basis to keep up their energy and fat levels.  They will only eat if it is light enough for them to see clearly.

More about this by reading another of my articles at 'GoArticles'.

Tropical pet birds in an outdoor aviary need to build up their fat reserves to keep their inner bodies warm so if they have been breeding you must ensure that they do not breed during the winter.  The chicks would surely die in the cold conditions and raising chicks certainly exhausts their parents and diminishes their food supply much quicker than if they were not looking after youngsters.  The best way to prevent your small pet birds from breeding again is to remove the nest boxes at the end of summer regardless of how many clutches they have raised; don't do it until any current babies have flown the nest though.

The tropical pet birds’ aviary will need to be dry and free from cold draughts.  This is not a necessity however as long as it is dry and draught free.  Artificial heating can be used as long as no fossil fuels are used to provide the heat, so no coal, gas or paraffin for example.

To ensure the aviary for your small pet birds is in good repair for winter, and to avoid having to work in the cold you need to carry out any repairs during late summer or early autumn.  To allow enough time before winter sets in it is necessary to inspect the aviary and fix any issues.  As long as your aviary is secure, draught free and watertight your tropical pet birds will be fine.

Sunday 21 August 2011

Cage or aviary - which is the best option?

This depends entirely on your own personal preference and what plans you have for your bird or birds.


I’ve recently sold some baby budgies and have been asked this question a few times and have always responded with the same answer.

If you want a companion bird, ie. one you can handle, tame and possibly train then go for a cage. If on the other hand you would like your bird to live out as natural existence as possible then go for an aviary. This is the basic gist of it but of course it does depend on your budget and the space you have available.

The majority of my birds live in a large outdoor mixed aviary at the bottom of the garden, but when I have babies to deal with I put them in a cage once they have flown the nest to try and keep them as tame as possible ready for sale. This also makes them much easier to catch once new homes have been found for them.

A caged bird will become much tamer and more human-friendly because it will undoubtedly interact with people more often. Whereas a bird in an aviary will live in a semi-wild state and will only be used to its main owner.

I do believe however that if an adult bird is taken from an aviary to be re-homed in a cage then this can have a psychological effect on it; after living semi-free in the aviary for so long this would be like a prison sentence to the poor bird.

On the other hand if a baby bird is first housed in a cage and has never known the relative freedom of an aviary then it will accept its existence as normal. This will not then affect the bird psychologically in any way. If the previously caged bird is then given the freedom of an aviary then initially it will wonder what’s gone off and will tend to stay put to start with. After a day or so however it will then begin to explore its new environment and will soon get used to the change.

Unfortunately this wouldn’t work the other way and a previously free bird that is now caged will undoubtedly become depressed.

To summarise moving an adult caged bird to an aviary will generally be fine, but moving an adult aviary bird to cage is not a good idea.

The only exception to this rule is if the bird becomes ill it will and should have the solitude of a cage whilst it recovers from its illness, this also quarantines the bird so that if the illness is infectious then the risk of the other birds catching it will be dramatically reduced.


Thursday 18 August 2011

Get your FREE pet bird ebook

Hi folks!

Here’s your chance to get hold of a FREE pet bird related ebook.

Although I am named as the author of this it is actually a PLR ebook I bought a while ago and added a few pictures and myself as the author, so it’s not brilliant but it does give some valuable information to anyone who wishes to start and keep pet birds.

I can write much better material and have done so  with my ‘Pet Bird Keeping Secrets, The Stealth Guidebook’.  You can also get 'Pet Bird Keeping Secrets, The Stealth Guidebook' by visiting my simple one-page site at http://www.birdkeepingsecrets.com/ where you can get a copy from several other resources.  The eBook I’m giving away free however will prove full of useful information to anyone new to the hobby so it is worth the original asking price of $14.97  but it’s now yours for FREE, and you can also get it from Bird Keeping Secrets, just click on the 'Get Your Free EBook' link.

It’s FREE so it’s worth having even if it don’t teach you anything, but I’m sure it will!

Please also feel free to give copies of it away to as many other people as you like, in fact I sincerely hope you do just that!  When you read it you will understand why.

So don’t delay any longer and click this link NOW to get your FREE copy.

You can either click the link and then once the book is visible click the ‘Save a Copy’  button in the top left corner or right click on the link and choose ‘Save Target As’  from the dropdown menu.
It is in ‘Adobe PDF’ format so you can read it on any computer that has ‘Adobe Reader’ installed, which is most of them.  If you don’t have ‘Adobe Reader’ then click here or here and get it for FREE.

Wednesday 10 August 2011

Flutter of tiny wings

I will be posting more details about the Australian grass parakeets soon, as promised, although somewhat delayed due to my other commitments.

I thought I’d take the opportunity to do a little upgrade post about the bird situation at home.

Stanton Birdman currently has 5 baby budgies for sale to good homes only.  They have now been taken from the aviary and placed in a cage ready to go to eager buyers.  There was 6 to start with from 2 clutches but one has already been claimed, a beautiful bright yellow from Squeek’s first clutch of the year, go to my earlier post http://stanton-birdman.blogspot.com/2011/07/nest-box-cleaning-time-again.html to learn a bit more about their upbringing and a photo of them when they were younger.

To try and make sure they go to good homes I'm asking £10 each for them.  I am only selling them locally however to minimise the phychological damage that they would suffer should they have to travel far to new homes.  If you would like any and live fairly local to Sutton-in-Ashfield, Nottinghamshire, UK then please email me at stanton.birdman@gmail.com.

Of the 5 that are left, 2 are from ‘Squeek’ (hen) – not sure who Dad is –  and the other three are from ‘Blue’ (hen) and ‘Pied’ (cock), my most prolific breeders.

This year's first babies ready to go
 Check the picture to take a look at them now but please excuse the quality as I only have my mobile phone’s 2mp built-in camera to take photos with.

They are all strong and healthy birds that are eating well and ready to go, but as they have not yet seen their first molt I can’t tell which are female and which are male.

So far there’s no cockatiel chicks (although they’ve laid eggs) and no Java sparrow chicks (they have laid eggs also), the Bengalese (society) finches and the zebra finches appear to be struggling with the concept of egg laying – the nests are built but no eggs laid.  Meanwhile both ‘Squeek’ and ‘Blue’ have already laid again, but I will only allow my birds to raise a maximum of 2 clutches each per year.

On a similar note, ‘Squeek’s’ baby from last year – another beautiful bright yellow – which I decided to keep myself because of her colour has also laid eggs but no chicks yet, so good luck to her!

Apart from the budgies the other birds seem to be struggling but I live in optimism.

Thursday 4 August 2011

Why I've not been around for a while

Hello! I'm back!

Yes I know it's been a while since I last posted anything on here. I've been rather a busy fella. You see I'm in the process of setting up a website of my own as a platform to sell my stuff on. This is still in construction but will be online soon; hopefully!

Other than that my main reason for my absence is purely down to my family commitments. 'Family first' is a policy I've always stood by my whole life. Recently a few of my grandchildren have had birthdays, have you noticed how with birthdays they all seem to happen at about the same time of year?

You see as I am such a great cook and baker, lol, I have been recently commisioned by family members to supply all the baked goods for my grand-kids birthday parties. First it was my youngest grand-daughter only a few weeks ago, next my grand-son last weekend, and still yet to come this weekend one of my other grand-daughters, so my baking commitment as I call it is still on-going. All this coupled with days out (after all it's the six-week's holiday at the moment), my internet ventures, and various other lifestyle pressures something occasionally has to take a back seat; and unfortunately my blog posts are it.

But I'm back with a vengeance now, or at least from this weekend, yes there's still day trips and my other internet ventures but no more party baking until next month.

I'll post you soon!

Pete.

Tuesday 12 July 2011

Small pet birds of Australia - A brief introduction to the grass parakeets

Here is an article I posted on 'EzineArticles' as a brief introduction.  I will add more stuff about grass parakeets, with pictures and videos soon.  Watch this space!

Australian grass parakeets are popular as pets or aviary birds due to their colourful markings, small size and placid nature. About the same size as budgerigars; they do however command a premium price by comparison but are well within the reach of most enthusiasts. There are about 6 popular species of grass parakeet used in aviculture.

All the species of Australian grass parakeets are closely related to the budgerigar but unique in their own separate ways. When kept as domestic birds they have very similar requirements to budgerigars; same type and size of nest box, same or similar type of food etc. so their requirements are easily met.

Originating from the grasslands of their native land as the name suggests, these are beautiful little parrots in a good variety of colours; often the iridescence of their plumage makes them even more attractive to the bird keeper. Also their calm and placid nature is an added attraction along with the fact that they are not prone to annoying squawking and often emit nothing more than a just audible chirp, making them ideal in flats or apartments where a quiet pet is beneficial.

Grass parakeets are readily available on the market but due to their desirable characteristics and appearance you will find that demand often outstrips supply. So don’t expect to pay less than £30 each and often more; not a bad price really but quite steep when compared to their nearest pet neighbours, the budgerigars which can often be picked up for £10 or even less.

The most common species as pets are the bourke (bourke’s parakeet), scarlet-chested (splendid), turquoisine, elegant parakeet, rock parrot, blue-winged parakeet, and the red-rump. Search for any of these in a good online image search and you will notice immediately why they are so desirable to bird keepers.

Bourke
Neopsephotus Bourkii
It is claimed that of all the grass parakeets these are the easiest to keep in captivity, as they are very undemanding. They originate from central and south-western Australia and are approximately 7.5 inch 19 cm long. Bourke’s parakeets are considered by some to be rather dull due to their brown colour but they do have a pink front and blue on the wings, there are some brightly coloured mutations however such as the rosy bourke, and all have a calm and charming nature.

Elegant
Neophema elegans
Native to southern Australia the elegant grass parakeets are olive-yellow in colour with a blue band across the forehead and along the edge of the wings and are about 8.75 inch 22 cm long. Very popular as captive birds with many keepers throughout the globe.

Red rump
Psephotus haematonotus
Originating from southeast Australia and found in flocks or pairs in open country, also frequenting suburban gardens and parks but avoiding the wetter heavily timbered areas and coastal regions. A medium sized parrot of about 25 – 28 cm 9.75 – 11 inches and emerald green in colour with yellow underparts, the actual red-rump only applies to the male of the species.

Blue-winged
Neophema chrysostoma
A migratory species that breeds in Tasmania but sees the winter out in southeast Australia, found in flocks of up to 2000 before migration but usually in pairs during the breeding season. These little parrots are about 20 – 22 cm 8 – 8.5 inches and mainly olive green with a blue band to the forehead and edge of wings and yellow belly (very similar markings to the elegant but the blue banding is less profound).

Splendid
Neophema splendida
Also commonly known as the scarlet-chested parakeet and often confused with the turquoisine due to similar markings. About 7.5 to 8 inches 19 – 20 cm in length. As their name implies these have a scarlet chest but also a yellow belly and underside, bright blue (often iridescent) head and wing edges and a deep green back and rump. Considered by some to be the most beautiful of the grass parakeet species and so making them very popular in captivity. Native to western new south Wales and interior western Australia.

Turquoisine
Neophema pulchella
Once common throughout eastern Australia but now mainly found in the north eastern areas. Approximately 20 cm 8 inch long. Also a desirable and popular pet due to its calm and placid nature (a trait that seems common in all grass parakeets) and it’s wonderful iridescent turquoise colouring to the crown, face and edges of wings, green back, often orange-yellow chest and red belly.

As Featured On EzineArticles


Monday 4 July 2011

Nest box cleaning time again


'Squeeks' babies
 Spent a full hour today cleaning out nest boxes and faeces off chicks feet.

First I took down one nest box at a time, but only the ones that contained hatched chicks (just 2 fortunately, or not depending how you look at it).

I opened the end panel of the nest box, took out the three chicks that were in there and put them safely in a cardboard box. Then I removed the concave insert and was forced to scrape the dried up faeces off it with a wallpaper scraper, and then I had to also scrape part of the inside wall for the same reason.

After returning the concave insert I got to work on cleaning my baby budgies feet. To do this I had to soak each foot in turn for about a minute in luke warm clean water (no additives or detergents), whilst trying not to give the baby budgerigar a bath in the process.

Then I needed to carefully prise the dried feaces off the chicks feet and claws - difficult to do without a soaking first, the soaking of the foot loosens the dried up faeces so it's easier to remove, but still challenging as it is important not to injure the baby bird in any attempt to clean.

When done i dried the chick by padding down any wet with a piece of kitchen roll (highly absorbent and does a better job of drying and soaking up any dampness) before returning the baby budgie to the nest box.

I then had to repeat the process with the other two baby budgerigars from that nest box, then repeat the whole thing with the other nest box that also contained three budgie chicks; much to the annoyance of the parent birds who were often squawking at me for disturbing their babies.

Fortunately my birds never seem to hold a grudge whenever I do this and are soon my friends again, especially if I bribe them with some treat.

Comment

If you are breeding your pet or aviary birds this is a process I'm sure you will be familiar with, if you're not familiar with this then you should be!

Until they fledge and leave the confines of their nest box naturally all their activity is within there, including going to the toilet. Bird droppings, whether from adults or chicks, will dry up into solid clumps that can be very difficult to remove. Even more difficult when trying to remove it from a baby birds feet and claws, which will undoubtedly get clogged up and can in worst cases cause a permanent deformity in your birds as they grow.

So be sure to check your nest boxes regularly and do whatever cleaning is required!

Friday 24 June 2011

Learn more about keeping your own birds and get your free gift into the bargain

My next main post about pet birds from Australia will be published in about a week from now (or less depending on the time I have) and will feature the ever popular grass parakeets, so watch this space!

In the meantime if you would like to know more about looking after your own pet birds then pick up a copy of my pet bird keeping ebook available from any of these 4 locations:

Instant download at MyEbook

Or also here at Payloadz

On cd-rom from Amazon

On Amazon Kindle

Please email me if purchasing through Amazon Kindle as I do not get notification of any sales at the time of purchase.

You'll be glad you did, especially as I'm giving away not one but two free gifts for anyone who makes a purchase.  When your purchase has been confirmed your free gifts will be whizzing across cyberspace to your inbox.

Stanton Birdman

Update, 26 August 2011.
You can now get to all the above links from my new one-page website, where I am also giving away a FREE ebook.  Go there now!  http://www.birdkeepingsecrets.com/

Thanks for your interest!

Australian birds as pets - More information about rosellas

There are several species of rosella, all belong to the genus platycercus which refers to the shape of their tails ie. broad or flat, a common feature in all rosellas.

Medium sized parrots averaging about 12 inch in length, give or take a couple of inches either way depending on the subspecies. All are native to Australia and the nearby islands and have distinct cheek patches and a scalloped appearance to the plumage on their backs.

Absent from the barren outback but quite common in coastal areas where they live in suburban gardens and parks, woodlands and forests, and farmland.
Most live together in flocks or small groups out of the breeding season which is when they then pair up and go their own way. Their natural diet consists mainly of seed and fruit.

Their bright colours make them popular pet birds and in captivity can live for over 20 years, please note however that they are usually very aggresive towards other captive birds with which they have to share their home. For this reason it is advisable to keep them in pairs or alone although I have kept golden mantle rosellas in a large aviary with budgies, cockatiels, and kakarikis with no problem. If doing this though you must be sure to have a large aviary so the birds can get away from each other if they need to.

WARNING: don’t ever keep different subspecies of rosella in the same aviary or cage, they will fight to the death so be sure to prevent them from getting at each other if keeping more than one subspecies. The same applies if trying to keep more than two rosellas of the same subspecies together also.

Green Rosella  Platycercus caledonicus

Sometimes called Tasmanian rosella, the green rosella is not actually native to Australia but to Tasmania and Bass Strait islands. This is the biggest of the rosella family averaging about 14.5 inch (37 cm) in length, and is often regarded as the easiest rosella species to keep in captivity.

The green rosella showcase: Avian Web, Wikipedia, and not just one video but another one also.

Eastern Rosella  Platycercus eximius

This subspecies is predominant mainly in the south east of the country but also Tasmania and has three recognised subspecies itself. Mainly occupying light woodland areas, but these birds have also been introduced to New Zealand where feral populations exist in the North Island, Hutt Valley and Dunedin in the south island. The eastern rosella is about 12 inch (30 cm) in length and is a very popular pet where the bright and colourful plumage is a big attraction.

Of course we like Wikipedia and Avian Web so much because we get more information from there, now let's watch a movie.

Crimson Rosella  Platycercus elegans

Also called Pennant’s rosella and Occupying mainly forests and gardens in east and south east Australia but also introduced to New Zealand. The crimson rosella has five subspecies, of which three are actually crimson in colour. In the wild they will gather in small groups, pairs of feeding parties outside the breeding season. Found mainly in coastal and mountain forests and woodlands. Popular pet birds that are about 14 inch (36 cm) in length.

Welcome to the crimson rosella show!  Avian Web and Wikipedia, and by special guest appearance here, and here.

Pale-headed Rosella  Platycercus adscitus

Often known as Mealy rosella this species inhabits open woodland areas and is native to north east Australia. The pale-headed has two subspecies and is very closely related to the Eastern rosella. The length is approximately 33 cm (13 inch) long but almost half, about 15 cm (6 inch) of that is the tail.  The pale -headed rosella is also sought after by bird keepers and does make a hardy pet which is easy to keep.

Pale-headed rosella on Wikipedia and Avian Web, and starring in its own show here.


Western Rosella  Platycercus icterotis

Sometimes known as the Stanley rosella this little parrot is native to timbered areas and eucalyptus forests in south west Australia. Usually found in pairs but will form groups of about twenty or so to forage. The western is the smallest rosella averaging about 10 inch (25.5 cm) with two subspecies. As with many rosellas these are often kept as pets or aviary birds where, as is usual with rosellas, their bright colouring is desired.

Read about the Western rosella at Avian Web or Wikipedia.

Watch a short movie featuring Western rosellas in the lead role.

Northern Rosella  Platycercus venustus

Also called Smutty rosella or Brown’s parakeet and is native in the north of Australia as it’s name implies, ranging from the Kimberleys and through Arnhem land to the Gulf of Carpentaria. The northern rosella is the second smallest of the common breeds at about 28 cm (11 inch) long. They live singurlarly or in pairs throughout the open savannah country.

Northern rosella on Wikipedia and Avian Web and YouTube.


All the above are available to the bird keeper but the desire for birds with colourful plumage has outstripped demand in many areas so a premium price often accompanies the purchase of a rosella. Don’t expect to pay less than £80 for one unless you’re lucky!


Check out the rosella pictures on 'Facebook'

Thursday 23 June 2011

Habitat damage hub

Wrote a hub a while ago and submitted it to HubPages

It's about the habitat damage caused by human demand for pet birds please click on this link and read it!

Once you've read it please share it with everybody!

Thanks!

Monday 20 June 2011

Australian birds as pets - An introduction to rosellas

Of all native Australian birds used as pets the rosellas are amongst the most sought after. This is due to their wonderful variety of colouring, their size and their unique markings. Their scalloped feather markings on the back is what makes them unique in the avian world. There are several different species of rosella, all of them unique in their own way, and they all have similar requirements when used in aviculture.

Common in all rosellas is the scalloped pattern to the feathers on the back and all have distinctive cheek patches. A very colourful and medium sized parrot native to Australia and the surrounding islands. On the Australian mainland these colourful birds tend to inhabit areas of farmland, woodland, forests and suburban gardens and parks, in the coastal mountains and plains but not the outback. Specific breeds tend to inhabit a particular area. Most species of rosella live in large flocks in the wild but not all.It is commonly held that their name originates from the area of Australia in which they were first noticed by early pioneers, the Rose Hill area of Sydney.

The most common species appear to be: Western Rosella - smallest of the species with two subspecies itself and is found in south west Australia. Crimson Rosella - five subspecies and inhabiting east and south east Australia. Green Rosella - the largest species and native to Tasmania. Pale-headed Rosella - two subspecies and found in the eastern part of Australia. Eastern Rosella - three subspecies and although native to the eastern area of the country they are found in many regions including Tasmania and have been introduced to New Zealand where feral populations can be found. Northern Rosella - mainly found in the north as the name suggests but can also be seen in open savanna country and a few other areas, this one is also more likely to be found in small groups or just in pairs in the wild. All these are popular as pets.

An aviary is the best option when keeping rosellas in captivity as this ensures an environment as close to their natural habitat as possible. If an aviary is not an option then they will do OK in cages, as long as the cage is adequately large enough for their requirements. They will need to have regular exercise outside the cage however and should get the opportunity to have a fly around. These birds are not usually talkers and will mainly chirp & squawk, although they could learn a few unique sounds or the odd whistle. A single rosella will form a very strong bond with its owner.

An important warning with regards to keeping rosellas:

They are best kept alone or in pairs as they can be very aggressive towards each other if a lot are enclosed together, a strange thing about captive ones this is as they tend to live mainly in flocks in the wild. Whether kept in aviary or cage try to only have no more than two, and ensure they are of the same species subfamily. These birds will fight to the death in captivity if different sub-species are allowed access to each other, so make certain that if keeping more than one type of rosella to separate the different sub-species by housing in separate aviaries or cages. If the aviaries are connected together you must at the very least double-mesh so as these birds cannot get any physical contact. Beautiful birds yes, they do have these requirements however, but they are easily achievable.

Most bird keepers will suggest that rosellas are not to be kept in a mixed aviary with other types of birds because of their aggressive nature. This may be so but I have in the past kept a pair of Eastern Rosellas (golden-mantled rosellas) in the same mixed aviary with budgies, cockatiels, grass parakeets and kakarikis and have had no problems, the rosellas tended to keep themselves to themselves and do their own thing. It would be best to get advice from an avian professional if unsure.

To summarise there are several types of rosella available to the bird keeper, but their demand can often lead to having to pay a substantial fee in order to purchase any. Their physical appearance however is well worth the expense.

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All the information you need for looking after your pet birds is in my ebook, go to 



Update

Today's nest box inspection revealed:  6 cockatiel eggs, 9 Java sparrow eggs in two nest boxes, 8 budgie chicks (5 in one box, 3 in another) and 3 budgie eggs.  Looking good!

Sunday 12 June 2011

A great day out for all the family

Located in the heart of rural Leicestershire in the UK is the village of Desford. Just a normal English country village apart from one main difference, the residents of Desford are used to seeing all types of foreign exotic birds flying and climbing about the village, many now consider that their village wouldn't be the same without the daily appearance of these birds. You see Desford is also the home of 'Tropical Birdland' (sometimes known as 'Tropical Bird Garden') a small visitor attraction within the village.

It is a great day out for all the family and especially those who are interested in exotic birds. Many of the feathered residents of 'Tropical Birdland' are free-flying, which basically means that they are allowed to roam free about the area; so don't be surprised when visiting there to find the occasional exotic bird coming along to share your lunch.

I don't really have the space to go into detail here but I have visited 'Tropical Birdland' with my family on a number of ocasions and we have always had a great time and returned home with some fond memories.

For more detail check out their website at http://www.tropicalbirdland.co.uk/ and then go and pay them a visit. You won't be dissappointed.

Friday 10 June 2011

Pet birds - The impact of domestic demand on the natural habitats of exotic and foreign birds

Bird keeping is a very popular pass-time throughout the world. However the demand for exotic or foreign birds in the past and mankind’s increasing intrusion has had a dramatic effect on wild stocks and their natural habitats. Fortunately new laws are being introduced throughout the world in an attempt to maintain the ecosystem and put back what has been taken.

Some time ago many wild birds were captured from wild sources to be kept in captivity with the intention of breeding for the pet, zoo and show bird markets. This unfortunately led to many wild bird species being brought to near extinction. Fortunately nowadays this activity is carefully monitored and policed around the globe which has gone some way to restoring wild stocks. Unfortunately many species are still endangered - to a critical extent in some cases - so careful policing and monitoring methods will need to be ongoing for many decades yet to come - some possibly permanently. However mankind is now beginning to notice the damage done to wild animals, native plant life and natural habitats and is constantly striving to pay back what has been taken so, with optimism, things can only get better for our wildlife, however this will undoubtedly prove to be a very long task. Only with dedication and determination will this ever be achieved.

Many countries now ban the import of domestic livestock and many others impose a strict regime with regard to the matter. This is of course an absolutely necessary precaution to help achieve the desired results. This does of course mean that many previously easily available exotic or foreign pets now have to be bred in the country to meet the demand in the market. This coupled with inflation, has ultimately had an impact on the availability and cost associated with each species; They're not as cheap as they used to be! However many exotic or foreign pet birds are readily available for the right price with the most popular breeds being the least costly.

Many people keep birds as pets and many new enthusiasts are appearing all the time so the market is by no means saturated and there is still much demand. This assures that breeding conditions are being improved continuously with new technology being incorporated to improve the chances of success. Also many private breeders are making use of the demand to help fund the cost of their bird keeping ventures. Mass breeding is still going on but fortunately new regimes are often being incorporated to improve the living conditions of birds in captivity, sometimes brought on by the influence of animal rights activity, but this is a good thing and can only help.

To summarise almost anyone with a desire to keep exotic or foreign birds for whatever reason can find many to choose from and some at little cost. Almost every pet shop in the civilised world will have a stock of pet bird related foods and equipment. Bird keeping is proving to be a desirable pass-time with a massive market to meet demand.

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Thursday 9 June 2011

Archive bird stuff

Remember when?

Click to view the Budweiser talking birds TV ad

Cool init!


Today's update

Currently mourning the loss of my yellow turquoisine cock bird who sadly passed away this morning. See his photo on the right side of the page.

+ R I P +

On a happier note; after checking the nest boxes today I was pleased to find 11 budgie eggs, 1 cockatiel egg, and 5 Java sparrow eggs. Good luck to them! This will be the first year that my current Java sparrows and cockatiels have chosen to breed, they were still young last year. I'll keep you posted of any developments.

Been re-arranging all the branches and perches in the outdoor flight. Now there's more space for me to get around without my birds losing anything. What's more I have made all my re-arrangements secure, so no more unexpected collapsing perches and branches.

I've also started taking down the walls of the old - now unused - night shelter and replacing with mesh panels, this will allow more sunshine into that side of the aviary.

If you don't know what I'm on about; when I first built my current aviary two years ago I also built a night shelter into my design because I didn't have a shed or anything similar to use at the time. Last year I extended the flight area and also incorporated a shed that I scrounged, repaired, insulated, draught-proofed, and boarded-out as a night shelter and thus making the old night shelter redundant. However up until now the old night shelter remained with just the front wall removed and became a part of the flight area. I am trying to dismantle it a bit at a time and replace with mesh panels.

A point or two to contemplate.

When furnishing your aviary with branches and perches etc. make sure they are secure and don't make the same mistake as I did, unexpected falls will scare your birds. It's sorted now.

My next point is that sometimes you will lose birds for no apparent reason. Yes it is upsetting but unfortunately you will have to learn to accept it, believe me it gets easier with time. Give them the best you can however and you will undoubtedly limit the risk.


Saturday 4 June 2011

Australian birds as pets – Lorikeets

Continuing our world tour of pet birds we are currently in Australia so here’s some essential facts about lorikeets and their suitability as pet birds.

Unlike many other breeds of parrot the lorikeets are especially adapted to live on a pollen, nectar and fruit diet. A brush like tip to the tongue, long narrow beak and special digestive enzymes make them unique from other parrot type bird species. Small to medium sized and often brightly coloured there are several species from Australia, all of which have similar requirements.
An Introduction to Australia Lorikeet Species on YouTube.

There are over 50 species of lories and lorikeets in areas and countries nearby but only about 7 from Australia itself.  These are :  ‘musk lorikeet’, ‘little lorikeet’, ‘rainbow lorikeet’, ‘varied lorikeet’, ‘scaly-breasted lorikeet’, ‘red-collared lorikeet’, and ‘purple-crowned lorikeet’. Each will be mentioned briefly here with a note about their sutability as pets.


Musk Lorikeet.  Glossopsitta concinna.

Musk lorikeet
 (green keet, red-eared lorikeet) Weighing in at about 60 grams with a length of approximately 22 cm (9 inch).

The musk lorikeet relies mainly on native flowering shrubs and trees for food and can cause some problems in commercial orchards. In the wild the musk lorikeet inhabits coastal woodlands and eucalyptus forests, often in large flocks of several hundred.

Habitation area of the musk lorikeet

Very rare as pets in America and Europe but a delightful pet in Australia though still not very popular due to government regulations that require a licence to keep native birds.

Wikipedia article about musk lorikeet.
Click here for Video showing Musk Lorikeet.
Little Lorikeet.  Glossopsitta pusilla.

(red-faced lorikeet, green parakeet) Approximately 40-45 grams and about 15 cm (6 inch) long.

Little lorikeet
Like others in the family the little lorikeet eats mainly fruit, pollen and nectar but prefers to be high in the canopy of trees. In the wild the little lorikeet inhabits East Australian forests, coastal heath and open woodland, and is very sociable often forming large flocks.

Natural habitat of the little lorikeet
Not kept as a pet in its native Australia and a very rare pet in Europe and America.


Video of little lorikeet.



Rainbow Lorikeet.  Trichoglossus haematodus Malaccans.

Rainbow lorikeets
(blue mountain lorikeet, green collar lorikeet, bluey, swainson’s loris) 125 grams approximately with a length of about 30 cm (12 inch).


Distribution of the rainbow lorikeet
Around flowering trees and sometimes in the company of scaly-breasted lorikeets, the rainbow lorikeet may congregate in noisy flocks of several hundred to roost and eat.

The rainbow lorikeet is very popular as a pet bird in its native Australia and also quite popular in Europe and America. A pet one can be a good source of amusement as they are always playing; a young bird can become tame quite quickly.

Rainbow lorikeet on Wikipedia.

Rainbow lorikeet video on YouTube.


Varied Lorikeet.  Psitteuteles versicolor.
 
Varied lorikeet

About 55 grams and average 19 cm (7.5 inch) long.
In the wild the varied lorikeet is mainly found in large flocks in melaleuca and eucalyptus woodlands in the tropical lowlands of Australia.

Varied lorikeet distribution
Virtually unknown as a pet in America and Europe and although there are a few kept as pets in Australia, this is still a rare occurence.

Wikipedia about the varied lorikeet.



Scaly-breasted Lorikeet.  Trichoglossus chlorolepidotus.

Scaly-breasted lorikeet
(green and gold lorikeet, greenie) About 75-80 grams and about 23 cm (9.5 inch) in length.

Although common in urban areas where it makes use of nectar rich garden plants, in its natural habitat the scaly-breasted lorikeet will form large flocks, often in the company of rainbow lorikeets. These flocks will travel from tree to tree in the open forested areas of its native land.

Distribution area of scaly-breasted lorikeet
A quiet pet bird which is also playful and affectionate and can be taught to talk really well. This makes it a popular species of pet bird in Europe, America and its native Australia.


Scaly-breasted lorikeet video.


Red-collared Lorikeet.  Trichoglossus haematodus rubritorquis.

Red-collared lorikeet

Approximately 125 grams in weight with a length of about 30 cm (12 inch).
Distribution of red-collared lorikeet

Unlike most of the other species of lorikeet the red-collared lorikeet prefers to abide as a pair or in a small flock. These move around often due to their food source, the eucalyptus flower being a favourite food so they tend to inhabit the open eucalyptus forests most of the time.

Although good pet birds they are kept in low numbers because of availability and price.

Wikipedia about red-collared lorikeet.

Video of red-collared lorikeet on YouTube.


Purple-crowned Lorikeet.  Glossopsitta porphyrocephala.

Purple-crowned lorikeet
 (blue-crowned lorikeet, purple-capped parakeet) About 45 grams and around 16 cm (6 inch) long.

Will form large flocks where food source is plentiful, including urban gardens and orchards. Their natural habitat in the West is in forest areas, whereas in the East they tend to go for coastal heath, mallee and open woodland areas.

Natural distribution of the purple-crowned lorikeet
 Not very often kept as pets or companion birds anywhere, but a little more popular as aviary birds.

Purple-crowned lorikeet on Wikipedia.

YouTube video starring the purple-crowned lorikeet.


Accommodation and feeding

A large aviary is not required to keep lorikeets but you really should have a suspended mesh floor on your lorikeet aviary.  This is because the nature of the lorikeet diet produces lots of droppings that are difficult to clean from a solid floor (plus you will be constantly cleaning).   It is much easier and efficient to have a suspended mesh floor so you can then just hose it down to clean.  For the larger lorikeets such as the musk, rainbow, or scaly-breasted an aviary about 8 foot (2.4 metres) long, by 2 foot (0.6 metres), by 3 foot (0.9 metres) is fine.  For the smaller lorikeet species like the purple-crowned for example, an aviary of about 4 foot (1,2 metres), by 2 foot (0.6 metres), by 3 foot (0.9 metres) will be sufficient.  Don’t forget the suspended mesh floor!

Remember that unlike most parrots, lorikeets by nature live mainly on a pollen, nectar and fruit diet so you must give these types of foods to keep them at their best.  The larger species will eat seed but this should by no means be their main diet and should only be given as an extra on occasion.  Of course fresh clean water should always be available to them for bathing as well as drinking and should go without saying.  There are commercially available mixes and recipes for your lorikeets but you may need to shop around a little.  Both dry mixes and wet mixes should be provided every day along with fruit such as apple, pear, grapes, melon, paw paw, mango, oranges and tangerines for example.

Here are a couple of recipes suitable for lorikeets:

Dry recipe.  1 dessert-spoon pollen (optional), 1 cup of glucose powder, 2 cups of rice flour, 2 cups of baby rice cereal, 2 cups of egg & biscuit mix, 1 teaspoon vitamin mineral powder.  Mix all the ingredients together and store in an airtight container in the refrigerator.

Wet nectar recipe.  0.1 litre of powdered skimmed milk, a half teaspoon of calcium carbonate, 1 tablespoon of honey, 1 litre of fresh water, a half teaspoon of multi-vitamins, 0.5 litres of high protein baby cereal, 1 tablespoon of pollen.  Mix all the ingredients together (the resulting mix should be very watery), freeze the mix in ice cube trays.  Serve 1 melted ice cube (1 dessert-spoon) per bird per day.

Of course if you can get hold of some nectar bearing fresh flowers your lorikeets will love them!

For more about lorikeets click on any of these three links: 
http://www.sandiegozoo.org/animalbytes/t-lorikeet.html 
http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/lories/ 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lories_and_lorikeets

Take a look at the lory and lorikeet pictures on the 'Stanton Birdman' 'Facebook' page

Pick up your copy of my pet bird keeping ebook on ‘Amazon Kindle’ by clicking here.

If you prefer the ebook as a ‘pdf’ on CD-rom to use on any PC (including ‘mac’) then click here.  If buying the ‘pdf’ on CD-rom I’ll throw in a free bonus as a special thank you, once your order has been confirmed I’ll email it straight out to you so no waiting for the postal service.

Loads of thanks for your interest!


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